Legend of Chongqing Specialty (111) The Origin of Chongqing Hotpot! The truth may surprise you …

Chongqing city looks like a pot of hot pot!

Surrounded by two rivers, is it like a pot of hot pot soup? And the Yuzhong Peninsula, like a piece of fresh hairy belly floating on the hot pot, is scalding … Some people say that Chongqing is more like a mandarin duck pot, with red soup on the Yangtze River and clear soup on the Jialing River.

No wonder Chongqing hot pot is famous all over the world. Chongqing looks like it, which is very good with hot pot.

Five conjectures

For decades, many people have been trying to research the origin of Chongqing hot pot, but they have not found a convincing source. I combed it, and there are five main origins of Chongqing hot pot mentioned in various articles. I call them "five conjectures" about the origin of Chongqing hot pot.

Conjecture 1: the origin theory of jiangbei street.This is the view of Li Jieren, a famous Sichuan writer who has opened a restaurant in Shanghai and worked as a vice mayor of Chengdu. In Li Jieren’s article "Talking about the basic necessities of life in Chinese-1947 and 1948", there is such a passage: "Eating beef omasum hotpot with buffalo originated in Jiangbei, on the other side of Chongqing. At first, the general retail dealer bought buffalo viscera, washed it and boiled it, then cut the liver and stomach into small pieces, put a mud stove on the shoulder, and put a griddle iron basin on the stove. The pot was turned upside down and boiled with a spicy, hemp and salty marinade. So people on the bridge by the river, friends who generally sell labor, and beggars who want to eat meat after earning a few words, gathered around the burden and benefited. It is not only economical, but also can increase the quantity of calories. I haven’t known it for many years, and it was all noticed by people above the class of Little Bourgeois. It was not until 21 or 22 years of the Republic of China that a small restaurant in Chongqing Commercial Street ennobled him and moved him from the head to the table.

Conjecture 2: the origin theory of "water eight blocks"On the streets of Chongqing, there is also a hot pot restaurant named "Shuibakuai", which is probably a belief in this school of theory. Some people think that at the end of the Qing Dynasty and the beginning of the Republic of China, there was a popular way to eat "eight pieces of water" on the docks and streets of Chongqing. On the roadside food stall, there are small dishes filled with all kinds of beef offal, and there is a mud stove next to the stall. There is a large pot with a grid on the stove, and the pot is spicy soup base. Diners pick raw slices from the plates to burn food, and then count the plates to pay for it.

Conjecture 3: the origin theory of Zaifang Street.Zaifang Street, next to Chuandao turn, is under the existing Shibanpo Yangtze River Bridge. This is the slaughter place of cattle and sheep in Chongqing in those days. According to this view, Chongqing hot pot originated in this place around the fifteenth year of the Republic of China (1926). Because after the cattle were slaughtered here, no one wanted the beef offal, so some people collected these beef offal that nobody cared about and opened a spicy hot pot restaurant.

Conjecture 4: the theory of the origin of boatmen.This statement is very common, and many hot pot owners have told me so. Chongqing is a big wharf with many boatmen. For the convenience of eating, at the bow of the boat and by the river, boatmen casually set up a pot to pick up or buy some beef offal that was not needed in the slaughterhouse. When the spicy soup was cooked, the hot pot was born.

Guess 5: the theory of the origin of miscellaneous vegetables.This origin, because it is not clean, even a little disgusting, is basically not mentioned in all hot pot restaurants now. Why? Because, miscellaneous vegetables are the leftovers in the restaurant before. Every day, especially in larger restaurants, a lot of leftovers are accumulated. Restaurants gather these leftovers together, wholesale them to vendors, buy them back from vendors, pack them in cauldrons, and sell them to poor people passing by on the side of the pier. A spoonful of miscellaneous vegetables and a bowl of "Maoertou" dry rice is a meal. There are also some poor families who buy some to go home and eat them as food. There is some oil and water in the miscellaneous vegetables, which can also be regarded as a beating in sumptuous food.

Leftovers naturally don’t taste good. Small vendors engaged in miscellaneous vegetables business came up with a clever idea, adding a lot of sea pepper and pepper. Under the hot marijuana, all the strange smells were suppressed. The poor people who bought home, after eating miscellaneous vegetables, will continue to cook vegetables with the remaining spicy soup base-hot pot was born. Miscellaneous vegetables, this name is not nice, so people gave it a nice name, called "Naolong Palace".

Miscellaneous vegetables are found all over the country. Beijing is called "combined vegetables", which is actually leftovers. During the Anti-Japanese War, the beggar boss of Marble Stone married his daughter, and he did a lot of things in the open air by the Marble Stone River. All the banquets that beggars come to eat are "making trouble with the Dragon Palace".

It is said that in the past, the income from selling miscellaneous vegetables in restaurants was not the boss’s, but the private account of all the guys.

Because the grade of miscellaneous vegetables is very low, Chongqing people swear and often use the word "miscellaneous vegetables": you miscellaneous vegetables! Here, miscellaneous vegetables are basically equivalent to the "three abuses" in Mandarin.

Which conjecture is more correct?

These five conjectures about the origin of hot pot have been flying around for many years in the smell of hot pot over Chongqing, and no one can explain themselves.

There are different opinions, which makes the owners of Chongqing Hot Pot Restaurant unable to recognize their ancestors. Some bosses, who can’t wait, just find an ancestor at random and hang it on the wall for three incense sticks in the morning and evening. If you are bold, simply claim that I am the first one. Why don’t you find another one to come out?

This article dare not say the final conclusion, just trying to get as close to the truth as possible.

According to the basic logic theorem, if there are two different descriptions of the same object, there must be a false one. Besides, there are five different descriptions. What should we do? I suggest we try the "exclusion method" first.

Personally, the most popular "the origin of boatmen" is the first of these five conjectures to be eliminated.

There are docks all over the Chuanjiang River and boatmen all over the Yangtze River. If hot pot originated from boatmen, why is it unique to Chongqing? Is it possible that the boatmen in Yibin, Luzhou, Fuling and Wanxian will not eat? Are they all that stupid? I don’t know if I want to use spicy soup to cook vegetables. They don’t kill cattle there? There will be no abandoned beef offal?

Therefore, if the boatman origin theory holds, then the origin of Chongqing hot pot is not Chongqing, but the whole Sichuan River. Chongqing hot pot will be sadly renamed Chuanjiang hot pot-where there are no boatmen in Chuanjiang? Where is Chuanjiang spicy? Where do boatmen not eat? Where is the dock free of beef offal?

Besides, why should only a boatman set up a pot and burn food with spicy soup base? Will beggars? Will the porters on the dock? I think farmers are also very likely. In the field, a pot and a dish can be very hot. Can we also have a theory of the origin of farmers, porters and beggars?

In fact, before Chongqing hot pot, there was no record of spicy hot pot in Sichuan. Therefore, the origin of Chongqing hot pot must be found in the history of Chongqing, not on the Chuanjiang River. That is really the wrong dock.

Some people take a photo of a boatman eating hot pot in the late Qing Dynasty as an ironclad proof that hot pot originated from boatmen. Oh, my god, this photo can only prove that they are eating hot pot, and it can only prove that there was a hot pot in the late Qing Dynasty. Who eats hot pot? He invented this hot pot? This logic is too powerful. I still eat hot pot every week. Why didn’t you say that hot pot was invented by me?

This theory of origin has no facts and no logical support.

The second thing to be eliminated is "eight pieces of water".

It is a mistake as the name implies to say that eight pieces of water originated from hot pot. Hot pot is what you eat in the spicy soup base! It has never been "eight pieces of water".

The book "Cuisine of Sichuan Cuisine", published in 1980s, has an entry of "eight pieces of water". Eight pieces of water is a kind of cold chicken. Use a male chick, boil it in boiling water a little, and cut it off. Then remove the chicken head, chicken feet and chicken wings, just cut the chicken body in half and then in half, cut it into eight pieces, and then use the oblique knife method to connect the bones with the meat and slice it into pieces of uniform size. Put it in a big basin, add red oil and other seasonings and mix well.

This is a folk dish, which used to belong to the category of "Tian Xi".

The book Sichuan Cuisine is very authoritative in the industry. When this book was written, many chefs and gourmets in the Republic of China were still alive, and many dishes in the book were handed down by these masters, so they didn’t talk nonsense.

I used to cook chicken, as if I liked the word "eight pieces", and there is a famous dish called "eight pieces of chicken with fish flavor". In short, it is to cut the chicken into pieces, like fried crispy meat, coat it with egg powder, fry it twice in oil pan, fry it until crispy, and then pour in fish sauce. In fact, it is not necessary to cut only eight pieces, but to use the expression "one chicken cuts eight pieces" to describe that this chicken piece should not be too small, otherwise it will not be enough to chew.

Therefore, eight pieces of water and hot pot have nothing to do with fart. It’s all a lie, plus a rumor.

There are three theories of origin: Li Jieren’s theory of the origin of Jiangbei, others’ theory of the origin of Zhafang Street, and the theory of the origin of miscellaneous vegetables that is not so tall.

Of these three origins, the first two are about the place of origin. Only the theory of the origin of miscellaneous vegetables is about the origin of the vegetables themselves.

It doesn’t matter where the place of origin is in Chongqing. No one can come up with hard evidence to prove that the hot pot came from my Dajiang North, or from my Dazaifang Street. The existing ones are all isolated evidence or legends. What we need to analyze is the time interval when hot pot was born in Chongqing and its evolution process.

Many famous dishes, especially hot pot, a special diet form, are unlikely to be so-and-so geniuses. Most of the whimsy after waking up goes through an evolutionary process and then gradually takes shape.

Evolution process of hot pot

This is also my guess, not necessarily right. Readers are welcome to criticize and correct me.

In the mid-Qing Dynasty, peppers came to the table in Sichuan.

But the premise of hot pot is not only pepper and pepper, but also oil and water. Scoop a spoonful of water to ensure that you can’t cook the taste of hot pot. If you have to cook it, it is estimated that no one will eat it. In those days, regular restaurants, no matter how big or small, could not invent the form of hot pot-in those days, spicy food was very off the table and was the food of the poor.

Slowly, by the end of the Qing dynasty, some small restaurants began to appear spicy dishes. This can be seen from the book "Chengdu Overview" published in 1908. At that time, less than 10% of the dishes in Chengdu restaurants were spicy. This is a very strange phenomenon. Restaurants refuse spicy food, but it has long been popular among the people-I have a book "Zhong Fu Lu" written by Zeng Yi, a beautiful woman in Chengdu during the Xianfeng period, which contains her family’s method of making watercress.

Then, the combination of miscellaneous vegetables and spicy food should be the earliest form of hot pot.

Miscellaneous vegetables and peppers all come from grass roots. After the combination of the two, you can use pepper to suppress the strange smell of miscellaneous vegetables. More importantly, the combination of oil and water in miscellaneous vegetables and pepper and pepper is the necessary condition for the birth of hot pot-we have to talk about logic, right?

Since the miscellaneous vegetables with pepper and pepper are not difficult to eat, can we not waste the soup after eating the miscellaneous vegetables? Something hot, isn’t it delicious and economical? If you add a little unwanted beef offal, the oil and water will increase and the taste will be good-well, in this way, the hot pot will stumble all the way to us.

The boss who started making hot pot is probably the one who sold miscellaneous vegetables.

To establish this form of hot pot, several conditions must be met: first, the bottom soup should have oil and water; Second, pepper and pepper have widely entered the people; Third, there are cheap sources of goods, such as beef offal and pig offal; Fourth, there are a large number of customers-friends who are so poor.

Unfortunately, Chongqing meets all these four conditions.

Miscellaneous vegetables have oil and water; Pepper was already popular in the late Qing Dynasty, which is recorded in writing. Chongqing Zaifang Street is not far from the pier, and the purchase channel of beef offal is very convenient; Plus Chongqing Grand Pier, the rich are a dime a dozen, and the poor are more than a dime a dozen.

Hot pot, in this way, is separated from miscellaneous vegetables and becomes an independent diet form-Heroes don’t ask about their origins, but delicious food is king!Chongqing hot pot, which was born at the grassroots level, set off in this way and headed for its sea of stars!

At the beginning, hot pot was probably also a tourist stall, and then some tourist stalls with good business were fixed as sitting stalls.

Early chafing dish, I believe, is not only available in Chongqing, but all places that meet these four conditions are likely to develop this form of chafing dish independently or by reference. It’s just that in my big Chongqing, this hot pot is booming.

In the early 1920s, there was a "worthwhile" pub in Shuigou Street, jiangbei town. The location of this pub is relatively partial. In the past, it mainly sold "cold single bowls", that is, loose wine with a little peanuts and dried beans, and the business was not good. Later, the hot pot business was added, and the business was good.

However, this is not the earliest hot pot in Chongqing. Because, at this time, there are already many open-air hot pot stalls on the roadside of Chaotianmen and other docks. Moreover, this "worthwhile" is definitely not the first, but other restaurants that learn from cats and tigers.

At that time, the hot pot stalls were sloppy. A mud stove, an iron pot, and inside the iron pot, there is a tic-tac-toe nine-square grid that is still in use. Next to the pot, there is a chopping board. The main dishes on the chopping board are: beef oil residue, beef heart, beef liver, large intestine and leg meat. Vegetarian dishes are wrapped in white, green onions and garlic seedlings, and there are also dried rice and dried rice.

The boss stood behind the chopping board with a kitchen knife in his hand. Beef oil residue and other meat dishes have been cut into large chunks, and diners (basically laborers) feed by the chunks, while the boss helps diners change the designated meat dishes into knives and cut them into small pieces. Everyone eats their own food-please note that there is no hairy belly at this time. As for vegetarian dishes, they are charged by the "handful", and the boss pays how much for each handful.

In the early days, except for the docks at Chaotianmen, most of the hot pot stalls in the city were concentrated under the eaves of the street at Jiaochangkou, and their management methods were the same as those on the docks. Jiaochangkou was a slum in Chongqing. The rich people in Chongqing are mostly in Duyou Street (now Jie Fangbei) not far away.

Compared with the most famous hot pot stall in the market, the boss nicknamed it "Li Maomi". When he counted the diners, he used the old small copper coins. Small copper coins are also called cents, so they got this nickname. Li Maomi is good at business. Every morning, he collects lithograph posters of various theaters on that day and sticks them on the wall next to the stall, where diners can talk while eating. This hot pot stall was destroyed by war during the Anti-Japanese War.

Chongqing hot pot is so famous that it has become a representative of spicy hot pot. This is related to the location of Chongqing. Before the Anti-Japanese War, Chongqing was the largest water wharf, the largest commercial city and the largest industrial city in southwest China (although there were few industries), and there were many poor people, so this hot pot stall correspondingly increased, and its reputation gradually increased.

Chongqing hot pot became famous all over the country, which really depended on the Anti-Japanese War.

Almost all the famous hot pot restaurants I can find are famous during the Anti-Japanese War. These hot pot restaurants are: Yunlong Garden, Luminous Cup and Shuyuan in Linjiangmen; 141 of Mihua Street (now Bayi Road) (later merged with Yunlong Garden in 141); Do not return if you are not drunk on May 4th Road; The "Han Palace Maodu Hotpot" in the Spiritual Fortress (now Jie Fangbei) … and so on.

Can’t help but say a digression. Now some hot pot restaurants like to recognize their ancestors. Of course, not only Chongqing, but also many places in China have this bad habit: find a brand that has disappeared from history, and then run out to recognize their ancestors and say that they are descendants. I’m sorry, please show me the chain of evidence, or I won’t recognize your grandson who was born. Especially those who call themselves the "first family" are even more absurd. Hot pot is a gradually formed diet, and it is impossible to prove who is the first one!

Get down to business. Hot pot stalls have appeared, can the hot pot restaurant be far behind? However, who actually moved the hot pot from the roadside stall into the small restaurant has no test now.

The hot pot at that time was completely different from now. Mr. Ma Zhitu once recalled the scene when he was eating hot pot in Chongqing: "Just lowering the table, sitting on a high stool, stepping on the table, shirtless, eating and drinking loudly, is really called eating Chongqing hot pot." -At that time, hot pot, put a small mud stove on the table, a small pot on the stove, or one person, or several people, sit around and eat.

The stove is on the table, and diners have to sit on high stools. The trick of burying hot pot in the table will take a long time to appear.

Ma Shitu, a famous person, ate a lot of hot pot in Chongqing and wrote a lot about it. Slowly, the fame of Chongqing hot pot spread far and wide.

 Finally, let’s guess againThe birth path of hot pot(The following is pure conjecture. If there is anything wrong, please criticize.)

At the end of the Qing Dynasty, with the popularization of peppers, miscellaneous vegetables, peppers and prickly ash were finally happily combined.

Then, the hot pot is separated from the miscellaneous vegetables. After several years, from 1900 to 1910, people began to forget the relationship between hot pot and miscellaneous vegetables. At this time, as an independent diet, hot pot was accepted by people.

Then (1910-1920), hot pot booths appeared, that is, the predecessors who carried the burden of hot pot and wandered around.

Some hot pot stalls with good business have been fixed and become hot pot stalls. After another, more people joined the team of hot pot stalls. However, the hot pot fixed stall and the traveling stall are likely to coexist, just as the traveling stall and the fixed stall in Dandan Noodles have coexisted for a long time.

Around 1920, the business of hot pot stalls became better and better. The population of Greater Chongqing is also increasing. Many high-end people not only like the heavy taste of hot pot, but also don’t want to put down their bodies, go to the roadside and rummage around in a pot with people who are working hard. At this time, some restaurants began to put hot pot on the table one after another.sideline in.

The professional hot pot restaurant appeared later, and it is estimated that it will not appear until around 1930.

The final shape, development and popularity of Chongqing hot pot in the whole country was during the Anti-Japanese War.

Original title: the origin of Chongqing hot pot! The truth may surprise you …

Jilin Changchun police exposed the sweet online dating scam and destroyed an electric fraud gang for 7 days.

  Recently, after careful investigation, the West Square Police Station of Kuancheng Branch of Changchun Public Security Bureau of Jilin Province successfully destroyed a telecommunication network fraud criminal gang in just seven days, arrested seven suspects and solved more than 80 series of cases, involving more than 400,000 yuan.

  It is reported that on October 22nd, the police of the West Square police station combed and screened through the public security online platform to get clues. A woman surnamed Sun in Huai ‘an City, Jiangsu Province reported to the local public security organ that she had made a friend who claimed to be engaged in engineering in Wuxi through a well-known dating platform. After a week of chatting, the relationship between them became more and more intimate. Chen Mou also took the initiative to confess to Sun, claiming that he had bought a diamond ring as a gift and was going to meet Sun in Huai ‘an. However, Chen Mou claimed that he usually likes to drink red wine, but the plane was not allowed to carry it, so he sent a shopping link to Sun, asking him to "prepare" a few bottles of red wine to drink together. When he thought of the "big style" and the diamond ring gift that Chen Mou revealed in his usual chat, Sun was carried away by the sudden "love" and opened the shopping link without thinking, which cost 24,000 yuan. What she never expected was that after the arrival of five cases of red wine, Chen Mou had blacked out its WeChat and couldn’t contact it any more.

  After preliminary investigation, Huai ‘an police determined that this was a typical case of telecommunication network fraud in the name of dating, so they entered the relevant information into the national anti-fraud platform after filing the case.

  After screening, the police of West Square Police Station found that the delivery place of red wine in this case was Erdao District, Changchun City. Zhang Wei, the director, immediately assigned Yang Guang, the deputy director, to lead the police chiefs Zhao Dongsheng and Yang Dapeng to set up a task force to fully investigate this key clue.

  Through inquiry, the task force locked the delivery express station of red wine in a very hidden old residential area in Erdao District. In order to get more clues, the police secretly guarded around the express station for three consecutive days, and sure enough, they found a pair of suspicious men and women who drove a black car to the express station on time every afternoon and sent boxes of red wine to all parts of the country. The task force then brought the two into the key screening line of sight. After further investigation and intelligence research, the task force mastered the information of two suspects and several gang members, and successfully locked the suspects in two hiding dens, one of which was the "office place" dedicated to telecom fraud and the other was the "warehouse" dedicated to living and storing red wine.

  After investigation, the task force determined the organization structure, division of labor, modus operandi and activity rules of the gang, and made a careful arrest plan, only when the time is ripe.

  On October 29, in order to wipe out the gang, the task force and the police were divided into two ways, and went to the two suspect hiding dens in Kuancheng District and Erdao District to wait for the net.

  Yang Guang, deputy director of a route, led a team and secretly rushed to a residential area in Kuancheng District. Due to the early investigation, it was found that there was a monitoring probe outside the den and the people in the house were extremely vigilant, it was difficult for strangers to call the door open. In order to avoid scaring the snake, the police put on two sets of uniforms for the staff of the heating company and called the door open in the name of checking the heating pipeline. The police seized the opportunity and rushed into the room. They successfully arrested five suspects, three men and two women, who were chatting with the victim in front of the computer, and seized five computer mainframes used in the crime on the spot.

  Zhao Dongsheng, another route police chief, led a team and found Cao and Qiu under a residential building in Erdao District. They made a decisive attack and successfully arrested two suspects, and found 30 boxes of red wine in their residence that had not yet been delivered.

  So far, all seven suspects of the telecommunication network fraud criminal gang have been arrested. It was found through trial that since June this year, Cao and Qiu have gathered Qiao Mogang, Liu, Bao, Gao Mouxun, Li Mouxiao and others to form a criminal gang, purchased tools for committing crimes, defined the division of tasks, and Cao and Qiu trained gang members in "speech skills", mainly using a number of well-known dating platforms, pretending to be rich or successful men, and targeting single and divorced middle-aged women.

  After trying every means to win the trust of the murdered woman, the suspect lied that he had bought a gift and was going to meet the other party by plane, but the plane was not allowed to carry liquid. So he proposed that the woman could help him buy red wine and send a shopping link displayed as "French Ramon Satellites Dry Red Wine", which was made by the gang in advance. They labeled the low-priced red wine bought in 20 yuan and disguised it as high-grade French red wine ranging from 498 yuan to 998 yuan per bottle. As long as the victim clicks on the link and successfully pays, the money will immediately enter Qiu’s personal account, and immediately after the success, the victim will be blacked out, and the principal couple and gang members will collect the money in the bag.

  At present, the task force has preliminarily verified that the gang used the same means to defraud more than 80 women victims, involving 12 provinces and 38 cities across the country, involving more than 400,000 yuan. Now Cao and gang members Qiao Mogang, Liu, Bao, Gao Mouxun and Li Mouxiao have been criminally detained according to law, and another principal, Qiu, has been released on bail pending trial due to pregnancy.

  The case is being further processed. (Reporter Liu Zhongquan)

Is online celebrity Scenic Area "Wild"? Be wary of "fairyland" becoming dangerous!

Reading tips

In recent years, some undeveloped "wild" scenic spots have become punching places in online celebrity on social platforms. There are hidden safety risks behind the fiery "adventure". The safety management protection network of undeveloped scenic spots needs to be woven by many subjects such as government, platform, travel agency and tourists.

 

On both sides of the crystal clear river, colorful tents and awnings are set up, and tourists play in the river. However, in an instant, the flood came in with sediment, and the tourists even had no time to put away their camping equipment and fled to the shore, but some people were still trapped in the middle of the river, in a dilemma … …

This is the scene of a sudden flash flood in Longcaogou, Longmenshan Town, Pengzhou City, Sichuan Province on August 13th. According to the report of Pengzhou Emergency Management Bureau, 7 people were killed and 8 people were slightly injured in the disaster. In fact, Longcaogou, which was favored by tourists before the disaster, is an undeveloped "wild" scenic spot.

The mountain torrents in Pengzhou once again sounded the alarm. In recent years, some undeveloped scenic spots have become "original ecological scenic spots" and "niche punching places" on social platforms, attracting many tourists, and "adventure" tourism has even become a popular game, but the hidden security risks behind it cannot be underestimated.

There is a hidden crisis behind the fiery "exploration"

Half a month after the flash flood in Pengzhou, when the reporter searched for "Longcaogou" on the social platform again, "fear nature and cherish life" became a frequent word.

In recent years, outdoor tourism, such as exploration and camping, has become popular. Many "wild" attractions like Longcaogou have become online celebrity attractions on social platforms, such as the abandoned mine cave in Jiande, Hangzhou, Zhejiang, the "sheepskin cave" in Guiyang, Guizhou, and the Shilaoren cave in Qingdao, Shandong.

Yin Jie, a professor at the Institute of Tourism Safety of Huaqiao University, analyzed that from the perspective of demand, tourists’ favorite travel mode has changed from sightseeing to experience tourism. Camping, outdoor exploration and other activities have high experience attributes, and affected by the epidemic situation in COVID-19, tourists’ yearning for natural space is becoming stronger. With the double blessing of "experience" and "being close to nature", tourism modes such as outdoor adventure continue to be hot.

However, there are hidden security risks behind the fiery "adventure", and tourists are in distress frequently. On June 29, two tourists fell off the cliff while climbing the "sheepskin cave", causing leg fractures and head injuries; On August 20th, a woman accidentally fell into the water and died while playing paddle board in Xiangtang Reservoir in Nanjing … …

Yin Jie said that tourists who visit undeveloped scenic spots without authorization may not only face the risks of natural disasters such as floods, mudslides, landslides and landslides, but also have accidents such as falls, sprains, falls and disappearances. Zhang Yuxin, a member of the Kunming Blue Sky Emergency Coordination Center in Yunnan Province, said that taking mine exploration as an example, the internal structure of the cave is complex, and there is no communication signal. After entering, it is easy to get lost, and there may be air scarcity or landslides. Once tourists are trapped, it is very difficult to search and rescue.

Who’s to blame for swimming in "Wonderland" but encountering danger?

Areas that are not suitable for travel have become popular tourist attractions, and tourists’ expectations for visiting "fairyland" have evolved into a tragedy of encountering danger. Who will be responsible for this?

At one time, Longcaogou was dubbed as "a good place to spend the summer" and "a little-known secret place to play with water" on social platforms, but these recommendations usually made no mention of the fact that Longcaogou was prone to natural disasters such as mudslides and flash floods during the flood season, and even undertook local flood discharge tasks.

"The product development, service management, system norms and other aspects of this kind of scenic spot are imperfect and unsystematic." Yin Jie said that becoming a punch-in point in online celebrity depends largely on the "online celebrity spillover" effect and the "filter beautification" effect, that is, the fan effect of the recommender and the beauty function of the lens.

Wang Xudong, a lawyer of Beijing Dongwei Law Firm, said that the "wild" scenic spot can not be turned into a punching point in online celebrity without the sharing of some bloggers on social platforms and the promotion of the platform based on algorithms. In the face of the massive information released by users, it may be harsh to ask the platform to actively delete each recommended scenic spot after risk assessment. "However, if a user complains or reports the danger of the site, the platform has the obligation to confirm and review it in time, and cannot let itself go." Wang Xudong said.

Yin Jie believes that tourists who travel after watching recommended videos have a safety accident, which belongs to "multiple causes and one effect". It is impossible to judge that the safety accident must be caused by information publishers or social platforms, especially in the case of undeveloped scenic spots and no complete supporting facilities.

In the travel itinerary provided by many tourists who witnessed the Pengzhou flood, the reporter saw that on the same day, they participated in the trip of "Cool Walking, Zhongba Forest+Longcaogou" of a travel agency. In this regard, Wang Xudong analyzed that travel agencies have the obligation to ensure the safety of tourists, and should fully inform the common risks in tourist routes and take effective protective measures. If the travel agency fails to fulfill the relevant obligations, causing personal injury and property loss to tourists, it should bear the corresponding liability for compensation.

The popularity of "wild" scenic spots has also revealed that some tourists have poor safety awareness. "As a person with full capacity for civil conduct, tourists should have the ability of independent judgment, improve their safety awareness and be more awed by nature. If tourists are still willful after receiving sufficient risk warnings, they should be responsible for it. " Wang Xudong said.

Weave the safety management protection net together.

The reporter found on the social platform that although Longcaogou is no longer recommended as a scenic spot, there are still many other "wild" scenic spots that are continuously shared and recommended, covering ruins, caves, jungles, canyons and other places. In the context of global tourism, the safety management protection network of "wild" scenic spots needs to be woven together by the government, platforms, travel agencies and tourists.

"Most of these scenic spots are located in remote areas. In case of danger, rescue may be difficult. It is extremely necessary for relevant departments to take effective preventive measures in advance." Wang Xudong said.

Yin Jie also said that government departments should do a good job in comprehensive management, risk monitoring and early warning of scenic spots and non-scenic spots, conduct a comprehensive investigation of potential risks in tourist reception places, strengthen risk information monitoring in conjunction with hydrology, meteorology, transportation, geology, emergency management and other departments, release early warning information in time, implement early hidden danger control measures, and build an emergency response system.

"Sharing risks and difficult adventure routes without explanation will often make tourists ignore potential risks and increase the difficulty of on-site dissuasion." Yin Jie said that for social platforms, we should focus on understanding and mastering the potential risks of tourist reception places, and add risk tips and safety knowledge popularization to content recommendation. When choosing routes and destinations, travel agencies need to comprehensively consider potential risks, surrounding emergency rescue facilities, and territorial safety rescue capabilities, and at the same time clearly inform tourists of possible risks and countermeasures.

The safety awareness of tourists is related to their own safety. Yin Jie believes that tourists should establish a "global" risk awareness, that is, they should recognize that risks may occur at any moment, strengthen self-protection, obtain extensive risk information before visiting, improve their travel emergency skills, reasonably choose tour routes, and abide by tour norms.

Interview with simon pegg: Weibo takes care of himself and wants to try his brain.

Special feature of 1905 film network After three years, Mission Impossible is back. The recipe is familiar, and Ethan Hunt’s old partners are still there.

 

Just last week, Tom Cruise, simon pegg, Henry Cavill and director Christopher Macaulay also made a special trip to Beijing to promote the film in China. Even the press conference was held in the ancestral temple.

 

Although it’s not the first time for several people to come to China, it’s still simon pegg who knows what Asian fans like.After teaching Tom Cruise to compare hearts in the Korean publicity campaign of Mission Impossible 6, several people did it again and again on the red carpet of the ancestral temple.


 

Speaking of this finger-to-heart gesture, simon pegg said,I learned it from fans at the Korean airport.. As a result, the activity of "learning now and selling now" immediately aroused Tom Cruise’s curiosity.

 

In addition to empathy, simon pegg’s Weibo is also quite skilled. See more Hollywood stars holding a piece of paper to verify their identity, and then give it to the staff to take care of; The Weibo painting style of "Simon Gathering" will be much more exotic. I promised to send nude photos after 1 million fans, and the result was my own model posing; There was also a brain cake on Halloween, and the result was screened by the pictures of pig brain flowers of fans.

 

When we asked Weibo about his cake, he said that he just wanted to show off the cake made by his sister, but China fans were so dismissive that they showed their real brains instead.Twitter gave him to the staff, and Weibo’s account was actually updated in person.. Although half of the replies were in Chinese that he didn’t understand, he also had a lot of fun.

 

The audience loves Simon so much. Apart from playing a geek-like assistant in Hollywood movies, it is natural that he collaborated with edgar wright and Nick Frost in the trilogy "Much ado about nothing" and "Blood and Ice Cream". Although edgar wright, who is struggling in Hollywood, has been waiting for cooperation with Simon again, it was Nick Frost who first got together with Simon in the movie.

 

Although Simon and Nick are only cameos in this film, Slaughterhouse Guidelines is the first work of their new production company. Will there be some tribute to my old friend Edgar in the movie? When we asked Simon, he smiled and said that if there was one, it was the director’s intention.

 

British "gay friends" who are also going to Hollywood, when Edgar left to start shooting, simon pegg shuttled through various series of movies that he loved quarterly as a child. After starring in Star Wars, writing a script for Star Trek and collaborating with Spielberg, is there any director simon pegg wants to collaborate with? The answer he gave was unexpected:

 

What director does simon pegg want to cooperate with most now?Cohen brothersAnd the one taken last yearPaul Thomas Anderson. In his view, the two directors have changeable styles and can grasp comedy, thriller and plot at the same time.

 

1905 movie network:You have collaborated with Tom Cruise on three "Mission Impossible" films before, and this is the second collaboration with director Christopher Macaulay. Should it be easy this time?

Simon pegg:I think every time you return to a story you are familiar with, it’s like going home, or getting used to the way things go. With the success of this series, I really feel relaxed. But never lose the challenge. You know the creators will always let you out of your comfort zone. You will learn new things and have many new experiences. I have been looking for the excitement of this series.

 

1905 movie network:At the end of the film, you and Rebecca Ferguson have a fierce confrontation with sean harris, and your character Bangui is even killed. Have you talked to the director about the ending of Bangui?

Simon pegg:Every time we talk about stories before shooting, we will discuss who will live to the end. And this one does have many roles that didn’t last. But in the end, the director thought it would be too much to let Benji die. Because Bangui is a popular character.This is a role that the audience will feel empathy for, because Bangui is similar to them in some places. He is very ordinary. I think killing him is like killing the audience.. But who knows next time?

 

1905 movie network:In this film, we see the growth of Bangui, who has more and more field missions. So in the process of shooting, do you have any stunts that you choose to complete under the impetus of Tom Cruise or the director?

Simon pegg:No, I am happy to do these crazy things. Although I can’t do what Tom did, I will try if there is any chance of stunt performance.For example, the underwater scene, although short, was really played by me.


 

1905 movie network:This should be the most stunt you’ve performed in this series?

Simon pegg:Quite a few. But I also have a scene in "Mysterious Country" where I sit in a car and get chased by many cars. That’s exciting, too I also have a fighting scene in that movie. However, the helicopter and skydiving in this part are left to Tom.

 

1905 movie network:Besides being an actor, you are also a screenwriter. Will you change part of the script or discuss with the director about the increase or decrease of the plot?

Simon pegg:A few lines, mainly Bangui-style lines. I can’t make any changes directly with Chris. Because he is also a good screenwriter. He has great control over the plot and characters, and he is a master. But Bangui itself still has some room to make some language adjustments, and Chris is glad that I will make some changes in this regard.

 

1905 movie network:It can be said that you have cooperated with all your favorite directors. Will there be directors who want to cooperate in the future?

Simon pegg:I want to cooperate with the Cohen brothers. I also want to cooperate with paul thomas anderson.. They are all good directors. The Cohen brothers make movies together, and Paul, and I like all their movies very much. I think the movies they make combine comedy, thriller and plot very well. The style of the film is changeable. They made my favorite movie, so I really want to cooperate with them.

 

1905 movie network:We are all concerned about your work "Slaughterhouse Guidelines" which was reunited with nick frost, and it is also the first work of your production company. Will there be a tribute to the previous trilogy of blood and ice cream?

Simon pegg:The director is Crispin Mills and the screenwriter is Henry Fitzbert. I think this is their movie. I joined as a producer, working with two companies, Promoting Global Media and Sony.So we were co-producers, and we played a small role. The protagonist of the film is a young man. If there is a tribute, it is Crispin’s behavior. (Laughter)

 

1905 movie network:You have many fans on Weibo. Do you remember the picture of the brain cake sent about two years ago? Have you tried brain flower since then?

Simon pegg:I remember that one because the cake is in the shape of a brain. But everyone seems to disagree and think, oh, it’s just a brain. We eat it anyway. I haven’t tried it yet, but I will try it.

 

1905 movie network:The picture of you teaching Tom Cruise to compare feelings is also circulating on the Internet. Where did you learn it?

Simon pegg:I think I learned it that day. I learned it at the airport. I have many lovely Korean fans. They came to meet me at the airport and taught me this way of comparing my heart with my fingers. I started doing it on stage. Tom came to ask, what is this? I said, this is empathy. Tom began to learn. I’m glad to teach Tom a little trick.

 

1905 movie network:You learn these popular things really quickly, and you can use all kinds of filters.

Simon pegg:Yes I sent it to Weibo myself. I basically don’t tweet myself because I want to stay away from Twitter. butWeibo is a very interesting place. Although I can’t understand half of the reply, because it is in Chinese. But I think it’s really great.


1905 movie network:Back to Mission: Impossible-Fallout, the director commented that’ the accident is an opportunity to surpass. Do you think you have encountered a similar situation?

Simon pegg:I think it should be the helicopter scene. Because it’s amazing. We’ve seen it in other movies, and we’ve seen it in other spy movies. Because that’s what spy movies are all about. There are trips, exotic scenery, various variables, and the pursuit of various means of transportation.. But this time Chris interpreted it in a new way, which I think is very powerful.


In the 1950s, hot pot once disappeared in Chongqing people’s diet memory. Why did it become popular in 30 or 40 years?

The real popularity of Chongqing hot pot, only 30 or 40 years, has formed a stubborn diet memory in its origin city. Contrary to people’s impression, the hot pot here is not loose and casual. Under the taste experience, the city has its own strict hot pot rules.

In the 1950s, hot pot once disappeared in Chongqing people's diet memory. Why did it become popular in 30 or 40 years?

△ Chongqing "Shuibakuai" hot pot originated in the late Qing Dynasty and the early Republic of China, and it is an economical and affordable mass catering.

Lao you Lao Lu old flavor

It is probably the easiest to talk about Chongqing hot pot. After all, who hasn’t eaten several hot pots with the word Chongqing in their brands? But as a Chongqing native, I find it difficult to talk about Chongqing hot pot. "What’s the difference between Chongqing hot pot and Chengdu hot pot?" "Where did Chongqing people’s hot pot memories come from?" When I really want to explore such a question, there is no obvious answer for my reference.

Although there are many forms of shabu-shabu in China, a broad consensus is that Chongqing hotpot originated from Buffalo beef omasum hotpot at the beginning of last century. Li Jieren, a Sichuan-born writer, once wrote in "Talking about Chinese’s Food, Clothing, Housing and Transportation" that in the late Qing Dynasty, the shipping of the Chuanjiang River was prosperous, and there were street vendors in Jie Fangbei area on the north bank of the Yangtze River, who were carrying buffalo viscera at one end and coal stoves at the other, cooking and selling now along the street. This form gradually developed and began to take root and set up shops. According to the literature, hot pot restaurants were once popular during the Anti-Japanese War. At that time, there were people in hot pot restaurants who made marinade, managed the fire, set porcelain on the table, used copper pots, and matched porcelain dishes with pots and teas in Phnom Penh, which was not much different from the current hot pot. In 1942, Guo Moruo celebrated his 50th birthday, and once hosted a hot pot banquet for Xia Hu Sheng and the celebrities in the theater at that time.

However, it can’t be concluded that hot pot was popular at that time. With the support of Chongqing Federation of Industry and Commerce, Qiu Zheng, a reporter from chongqing morning post, visited 100 industrial and commercial practitioners before liberation and published a collection of oral history. Because of the hope of restoring the life in the old city of Chongqing, Qiu Zheng and his fellow travelers asked the old people whether they had any impression of hot pot before liberation. As a result, except for two old people who opened stores, only a few old people had an impression of hot pot. This can prove that Chongqing hot pot was popular for a short time during the Republic of China, but it is far from reaching the level of national cuisine today. Then, with the decline of the market economy after the public-private partnership in the 1950s, hot pot once disappeared into the food memory of Chongqing people, and it was not until the 1980s after the reform and opening up that hot pot returned to the commercial catering map of Chongqing.

Like the origin of hot pot, the second revival of hot pot also started from Chaotianmen and spread away. Tuotuo, a veteran hot pot eater born in the 1970s, was born and raised around Jie Fangbei. He remembers that he had to go to Linjiangmen near Jie Fangbei after school when he was a child, and he smelled the smell of Dongzi hot pot and butter hot pot, and he thought it was the most fragrant thing besides automobile exhaust.

Tuotuo became popular with me. In the past, Chongqing hot pot did not charge the bottom of the pot, but "washed the oil" after the soup was used, that is, filtered off the residue, boiled at high temperature, evaporated the water vapor, and left the red old oil for recycling. In the early years, materials were scarce, Chongqing people loved to eat heavy oil, and hot pot was civilian. Using old oil can solve the problem of ordinary people eating hot pot. Tuotuo is also a staunch "old oil pie". I asked him how long he could use the old oil for cooking hot pot at home, and he said all his life. This must be an exaggeration. I am a taxi driver in Lu Yu. I always cook hot pot at home and fry it well. He said that the service life of his old oil in domestic hot pot is generally one year, not because I have doubts about the quality of the oil, but because the ingredients absorb the oil, and the old oil is sucked up after only a few scalds.

The old oil used in hot pot is the helplessness of material shortage, but because of repeated cooking, it has unexpectedly gained a heavy feeling and become a source of flavor. Tan Tinggang, the owner of the hot pot restaurant, entered the hot pot industry in the 1990s. He was an apprentice at the Dan Dan hot pot stall near Chaotianmen. He remembered that in his early years, he not only used old oil in the hot pot, but also left a spoonful of the soup base the day before and added a new pot, just like the old marinade of the marinated vegetables. Senior diners will also emphasize with pride that old oil is not waste oil. For them, no matter how well the disposable pot bottom is made, it only has fragrance and lacks heavy feeling, just like perfume lacks hierarchy, only the front tone, not the middle tone and the back tone.

In the 1950s, hot pot once disappeared in Chongqing people's diet memory. Why did it become popular in 30 or 40 years?

△ The chef is often the highest-paid employee of Chongqing Hot Pot Restaurant.

Thick beef oil pan

Chongqing hot pot is an art of combination. Generally speaking, there are two factors that determine whether a store’s hot pot is good or not: soup base and ingredients. The soup base determines whether a hot pot is an old hot pot or a new hot pot. The old hot pot is the absolute mainstream of the local market in Chongqing, and most of the chain brands familiar to foreigners belong to the new school. What is a hot pot? In the past, it used to refer to hot pot with old oil. The ingredient of old oil is butter, but now it is not emphasized, but butter can never be changed.

The animal fat used in Chongqing’s home cooking is usually lard, which is fine and smooth, while butter has large fat particles, rough taste, special fragrance and smell, and is rarely used in traditional Sichuan cuisine. However, compared with lard, the melting point of butter is as high as 40℃ ~ 46℃, which is very easy to solidify, so it has strong adhesion and is easy to stick to ingredients. It tastes rich and heavy, but it has become a natural spicy hot pot soup. In Chongqing, the one who dares to play the signboard of the old hot pot, the bottom of a pot of soup, usually has a butter content of 5 ~ 6 kg, which is equivalent to the proportion of broth in the bottom of the pot. Butter has a high degree of fusion, so even if the soup base rolls away, the grease will not all swing on the surface of the water, but will be mixed with water, clear and dense, and the taste will be heavy without hemp, and the ingredients with fierce regeneration will be able to withstand the rolling, giving people satisfaction. In the old Chongqing hotpot, there was only one kind of butter as the base material. However, in the process of improvement, some hotpot restaurants will add a small amount of rapeseed oil and lard, one is to slow down the solidification speed of the pot bottom, and the other is to make the soup bottom smoother, but the rapeseed oil and lard can’t exceed 20% at most, and any more will be scarce. Of course, this is the standard of Chongqing. In other places, even the most authentic Chongqing old hot pot restaurant, generally speaking, the butter content at the bottom of a pot is at most 2 ~ 3 kg, or even as little as 1 kg. In the words of Chongqing people, it is called floating oil, just to get some butter flavor.

For Chongqing hotpot, a good choice of butter is half the battle. In the past, most owners of hot pot restaurants bought beef fat and went home to refine oil, but with the development of hot pot industry in Chongqing, most old hot pot restaurants bought finished butter. In order to meet the production standards, industrialized butter will choose to lose some of its flavor, and with the shortage of products, the impurities mixed in butter will also increase. Therefore, in recent years, a few hot pot restaurant owners have chosen to buy fresh beef fat and go home to refine their own oil. Du Jian, the owner of Shapingba No.2 Hot Pot, is one of them. He told me that to refine more pure and moist butter, we should choose the fat with the hind legs close to the buttocks. Butter refining takes a lot of effort. If it is too old, it will lose its unique butter flavor. If it is too raw, it will smell too strong, and it will also produce a lot of bubbles at the bottom of the hot pot. At present, it is Du Jian’s mother who has mastered this technique.

When an old Chongqing person walks to the door of a hot pot restaurant, he can smell the color of a hot pot, while people who are used to eating butter pot bottoms will always feel airy and empty when they eat other pot bottoms. It is precisely because butter is too "real" for neighboring Chengdu people to accept, so the bottom of Chengdu hot pot is generally made of clear oil, that is, rapeseed oil, plus various spices. It looks like a red pot, but it tastes completely different and tastes full of plant fragrance. That aroma is easy to get on clothes, which is the source of "hot pot flavor" in many hot pot restaurants.

In the 1950s, hot pot once disappeared in Chongqing people's diet memory. Why did it become popular in 30 or 40 years?

△ In the wholesale market, a vendor is handling duck intestines, which is one of the most sold ingredients in Chongqing hot pot industry.

The contest between oil dish and bottom soup

Before I returned to Chongqing, someone told me that dipping is also one of the criteria for observing whether a Chongqing old hot pot is authentic. When I was waiting in line at the store of Erchafang, I chatted with a local and used the word "taste dish" when talking about this topic. The result was repeated three times, and the other party was still confused. It was not until I wrote it that he suddenly realized, "You said oil dish!" Later, I learned that for Chongqing people, dipping sauce has no seasoning function, so they don’t have the concept of "taste dish"

The standard dipping sauce of Chongqing old hotpot is oil dish, which mainly uses sesame oil. Some stores will serve it on the table, and some stores will put a vat directly at the door of the store with a faucet for customers to pick up. Some foreigners can’t react and think it is tea. In addition to sesame oil, some stores also provide rapeseed oil, which is mixed with a small amount of garlic to cool down, smooth and enhance fragrance. Some people add vinegar to the oil dish in order to reduce the spicy degree, which is tolerable, but oyster sauce is not. Oyster sauce originated in Chengdu, which is too fresh for Chongqing people and has a heavy sweet taste, and it is easy to spoil the taste of hot pot soup. One theory is that the soup base of Chongqing hotpot can be used to soak rice directly, but no one does it now, but there are still many people who directly put a few spoonfuls of soup in a bowl for dipping without using an oil dish. In the eyes of these people, the hotpot that needs dipping seasoning is definitely a failure.

Chongqing people’s grasp of spicy taste is very subtle, even in order to retain the fragrance of pepper and pepper itself, they firmly rejected any spices. This, of course, came out after repeated trials and choices. Zhang Zhengxiong, president of Chongqing Catering Association, remembers that in the early days of reform and opening up, the bottom material of Chongqing hot pot was watercress, which contained starch, was highly dependent, and the ingredients were easy to taste. There was also a unique flavor of watercress, and the soup contained crystal sugar mash, so the hot pot at that time was very mellow and sweet, which was not considered as spicy marijuana. But then, in order to pursue a more extreme taste experience, Chongqing people abandoned douban and turned the main ingredient into Zanba sea pepper. Ciba sea pepper refers to removing the pedicels of fresh peppers, washing them clean, adding condiments such as ginger and garlic cloves and crushing them into balls, which looks like Ciba, and its characteristics are clear, dry and spicy. In Zhang Zhengxiong’s view, this is a wrong expression of ingredients. Therefore, watercress returned to the bottom material of hot pot. Now, the bottom material of Chongqing old hot pot often uses watercress and Ciba sea pepper at the same time, and finally forms a basic flavor that takes into account the spicy and strong flavor of hemp.

The strength and aggressiveness of spicy taste itself can easily make people think that they are rude and monotonous, and then think that they can easily enter the hot pot industry. This illusion may be effective for areas outside Chongqing, and hot pot is indeed the most easily standardized catering industry under the condition of low requirements for flavor itself. Little Swan is the first brand in Chongqing to join the chain nationwide and realize the automation of hot pot bottom material production, but its general manager Liu Qing told me that there must be a difference between an automated factory and a hand-fried bottom material, because a good frying master will adjust the frying time, duration and intensity according to the temperature and humidity of the environment, and the frying equipment is not so intelligent.

In the 1950s, hot pot once disappeared in Chongqing people's diet memory. Why did it become popular in 30 or 40 years?

△ Chongqing diners eat hot pot in a hot pot restaurant transformed from a bomb shelter.

Bai Jia Bai Wei hotpot Jianghu

In order to bring out a unique soup base, a good hot pot owner needs to know the characteristics of pepper and sea pepper like the palm of his hand. Du Jian, the owner of the second hot pot, used to go to the market to taste pepper and pepper when he was free. He told me that pepper is relatively simple, and the most important thing is to see if there are impurities, that is, whether the black seeds are cleaned. If they are not cleaned, the boiled soup will be bitter. In contrast, the functions and types of peppers are extremely rich. At least three types of peppers are needed for the most mediocre Chongqing old hotpot soup base, one is the main spicy, the other is the fragrance, and the other is the color enhancement. In each different type of pepper, the variety and quality are very different, and the combination depends entirely on the master’s own collocation, which is why some hot pots look full of peppers, but they are not spicy at all, while some hot pots can make their mouths spicy, but their stomachs are intimate and won’t upset.

At Shuang Fu International Farmers Market in jiangjin district, Chongqing, Xiao Cong, who wholesales peppers, told me that there are nearly 20 kinds of peppers wholesale in his shop, and the output, quality and price of peppers are different every year, so it is necessary for the master to check it himself. The customers of hot pot restaurants that Xiao Cong has seen are one after another. Some bosses are excited at first, buying ingredients and studying the flavor, but they are soon defeated, falling to the bottom material of standardized production, and then casually adding peppers with different characteristics and scribbling them on the table. This kind of hot pot restaurant often won’t last long.

Those old hot pot restaurants that can catch fire must have personalized tastes, such as Er Hot Pot in Du Jian, which is extremely spicy and spicy, and young people like it very much. The first time I went to his house to eat hot pot, I just felt that the dishes were soft and delicious at first, but after eating for 10 minutes, as soon as a mouthful of duck blood was put into my mouth, the pungent taste exploded in my mouth, and I almost swallowed the duck blood in pain. Immediately, sweat suddenly started from my forehead, and raindrops dripped down and never stopped. But after careful understanding, there is no too hot feeling in the stomach, and the feeling after eating is carefree.

Du Jian is actually less than 30 years old. When he was a child, he owned a Sichuan restaurant at home. He felt that the chef was not doing well. He cooked for himself in his teens, and later he cooked hot pot himself. Later, he simply opened a hot pot restaurant himself. The shop is in my home, the family area of the closed state-owned cotton mill in Shapingba. At first, only a few tables were set up, and with repeat customers, it slowly expanded to both sides, and rented several residents in the surrounding lanes, so that the scale of 33 tables was achieved today. A large pot was set up outside the store every day, and the raw materials and ingredients were fried now. Like many Chongqing hot pot restaurants, he only cooks this meal at night, opens at 4 pm, and stays out for fitness and playing ball during the day.

Unlike Du Jian’s extreme spicy food for young people, Tan Tinggang’s "Guaner Hotpot" is a more traditional flavor. On the day I went to interview him, a guest came into the store and shouted, "Yuanyang pot, the old taste is a little worse!" " Listening to the voice, Tan Tinggang knew that he was a regular customer and shouted back loudly: "You can’t get used to the old taste." There shouted, "Take foreign guests to have a taste." After that, he disappeared into the lobby, and Tan Tinggang returned: "That’s even worse." Without waiting for an answer, he called to the waiter himself, "Give them a mandarin duck pot to lighten the old taste."

The old flavor in the mouths of guests and Tan Tinggang refers to the unique paste flavor in Guaner Hotpot Restaurant. Spicy paste is a long-standing and fixed flavor in Sichuan cuisine, which comes from the flavor emitted by pepper segments and peppers when they are fried to near zoom, and its representative dish is kung pao chicken. Tan Tinggang had studied Sichuan cuisine before, and he said that Mao Xuewang in restaurants around Chaotianmen before liberation was also that kind of fragrant paste. Tan Tinggang wants to make this flavor, which is related to his experience in opening a shop. He opened a hot pot restaurant in Chengdu more than ten years ago, and his business was extremely hot at first. However, because of his lack of characteristics, after the number of competitors increased, he could not do it soon and had to close down. When he first returned to Chongqing to make a comeback, he wanted to make pickled peppers, but he found that it had been made by another hot pot restaurant, so he had to turn to the paste incense he is making now. First, he could catch the guests in the fifties and sixties, and second, he wanted to find a differentiated route in the hot pot rivers and lakes of Chongqing in blood shed.

The secret of burning incense is to fry the pepper until it is slightly burnt. If it is not burnt, it will be tasteless, but if it is too burnt, it will be bitter, so the degree of burning depends on his experience. Tan Tinggang learned this flavor from another hot pot restaurant, but made a little improvement. Pumpkin seeds and sunflower seeds were parched, ground into powder, fragrant, added to the bottom of the pot, and mixed with the burnt aroma of pepper to make it just right. Tan Tinggang is quite proud of this model. "I may be the only one in Chongqing."

On the public comment website, the rating of Guaner Hotpot is not high, but his passenger flow is stable. During the interview, he showed me which tables were acquaintances and which tables had been eaten by him for ten years. When he was pointing it out to me, a table of guests rushed over and said, "The aftertaste in the pot is too heavy and sweet. What’s the matter?" Tan Tinggang quickly asked the waiter to feed. He said that it was because the proportion of the Yuanyang pot was different, the waiter was inexperienced, and there was too much mash and rock sugar on the side of the spicy pot. In this case, you can’t add water, you can only add spicy materials, add raw oil, and suppress the sweetness.

One saying is that in the hot pot market in Chongqing, the taste of all hot pots can reach the passing line, but if the passing line goes up, it will become very difficult to climb. In addition to different tastes of different people, there are also some strange situations. For example, some time ago, Tan Tinggang found that the bottom of his own pot would burn white and yellow foam, while the normal foam should be yellow and red, and it would disappear when the water boiled. Tan Tinggang didn’t know what was going on, so he had to pull out seven or eight pots, put the same materials, and made a control experiment to find out the problem. Finally, he found that the newly changed chicken essence was not suitable. This slight difference affects the taste, but it is so small that not every guest can find it. If the boss can’t find it himself, the life of the pot of soup will slowly wither away.

Chongqing people choose hot pot, and in turn, hot pot is reshaping the taste experience of Chongqing people. Zhang Zhengxiong said that Chongqing Sichuan cuisine used to be slightly spicy, while hot pot was extremely spicy. In the late 1980s, he worked in Beijing for a period of time. When communicating with others, the representatives of Sichuan cuisine mentioned were shredded pork with fish flavor, Mapo tofu, kung pao chicken and Sichuan style pork. But more than a decade ago, when he went to Beijing again to communicate with people, the representatives of Sichuan cuisine had become authentic Jianghu dishes such as Maoxuewang, boiled fish and greedy frog. The same spicy flavor makes Jianghu dishes and hot pot known as brother dishes and sister dishes. According to Zhang Zhengxiong’s observation, it is the rise of hot pot that reshapes the taste experience and memory of Chongqing people and promotes the popularization and development of Jianghu dishes.

Hairy belly praise

Chongqing people don’t eat hot pot, but say hot, hot pot must be hot and fresh hairy belly. Hot pot tastes heavy, and Chongqing people’s requirements for fresh ingredients and original taste are relatively low, and hairy belly is a rare counterexample. Beef tripe is beef stomach, and cattle are ruminants. There are four stomachs, namely rumen, reticulate stomach, flap stomach and abomasum. Among them, flap stomach is the scientific name of beef tripe, which is leaf-shaped and does not secrete gastric juice. Its function in cattle is to absorb water and acid produced by fermentation of forage during rumination.

Melaleuca tripe usually sold in hot pot restaurants in other places is not fresh beef tripe, but a processed product of beef tripe after high-temperature autoclaving. Similarly, there is beef tripe, which is also a dry beef tripe soaked in alkaline water or a liquid with a specific biological enzyme to make it swell again. When scalding, the thousand-layer belly and hairy belly do not shrink, and they are not old for a long time, and the taste is delicate and crisp enough, which is very popular in other places. However, these two ingredients are simply not found on the menu of most Chongqing old hot pot.

Chongqing people’s choice is fresh beef tripe. Compared with thousand layers of beef tripe and hairy tripe, fresh beef tripe has a unique flavor of beef stomach, which is crisp and slag-melting. Among the beef tripe varieties in the market at present, it is a general consensus that the quality of beef tripe in buffalo is better than that of beef tripe in cattle. However, buffalo beef is rough and sour, which is not a beef breed and has less slaughter, so the supply is in short supply.

The color and shape of beef omasum and beef omasum are almost the same, and there are only three differences. First, the top of the protruding thorn on beef omasum is sharp, while the top of the protruding thorn on beef omasum is round, but the length of the protruding thorn is only three or four millimeters, so it is difficult to distinguish it without rich experience. Second, the stomach wall of buffalo beef omasum is thicker, which is also the reason why buffalo beef omasum tastes fuller, but the thickness of beef omasum meat is related to the growth cycle of cattle itself, not only to the variety; Third, the fresh buffalo hairy belly is stiff like a collar, while the ox hairy belly is as soft as a towel. These differences are logical to say, but it is difficult to apply them in practice. Guo Jianguo, who has been doing beef omasum business in Chongqing for decades, told me that in fact, in the fresh goods market, many hot pot restaurant owners can’t tell the difference between beef omasum with water and beef omasum with cattle.

It is still unknown whether you can get a good fresh hairy belly. Fresh beef omasum requires extremely high timeliness, so beef omasum workers need to take out the abdominal cavity of the cow in the fastest time when the cow is slaughtered, clean it up, dry it slightly, and immediately wrap it with ice cubes. The flap stomach of cattle is actually extremely difficult to handle. The leaf-like stomach pages are arranged in the spherical stomach wall, like a dense seaweed, which is uneven and full of semi-digested products of cattle. When Guo Jianguo was young, he cooperated with slaughterhouses in Chongqing, and all the beef tripes in the slaughterhouse were covered in years. His business was able to grow because he handled beef tripes quickly, and he could handle a flap stomach in three or four minutes at the earliest. If you are unhappy, the stomach page will easily rot, and the layer of meat thorn will fall off as soon as you rub it. It can only be used to make a dry hairy belly or a thousand layers of belly. Sometimes, after the cattle are slaughtered, if the slaughterhouse workers don’t gut their stomachs in time, the quality of beef omasum will drop rapidly, and the wholesale price of beef omasum will be 2-3 times worse than that of beef omasum in a few minutes.

In recent years, Guo Jianguo handed over his business to his daughter and son-in-law, and he drove to Jie Fangbei to play mahjong every day. His daughter told me that now their hairy bellies come from Xinjiang as far away as possible, and the workers are sent from Chongqing by themselves, so they work in the local slaughterhouse, get the hairy bellies, treat them, and send them back to Chongqing by shipping immediately. The fastest time is only 4 hours. Sometimes, these hairy bellies will return to the starting city after a tour of the fresh goods market in Chongqing, because it is difficult for other cities to find suitable workers who can handle fresh hairy bellies so perfectly like Chongqing people. In fact, most of the fresh hairy bellies used in hot pot in China now come from Chongqing. Local hot pot restaurants in Chongqing are more demanding. After dealing with beef omasum wholesalers, they often take the whole stomach flap directly from the slaughterhouse and put it in the store for refrigeration. When there are few guests at noon, the guests will tear it now, and when there are many guests at night, they will tear it one or two hours in advance and put it on a plate for refrigeration. Tearing here refers to tearing the hairy belly off the stomach wall by hand. This is also different from the past. In the past, it was cut with a knife and put together with the stomach wall. However, the time when the stomach wall and stomach leaves became brittle was out of sync, and now it has been abandoned by many hot pot restaurants.

But for diners, a good dish of hairy belly is served, and the adventure has just begun. Many foreign guests have heard of the saying that scalding a hairy belly requires "seven ups and eight downs", and Zhang Zhengxiong does not agree with this statement. He told me that different people scald their hairy bellies differently. Some people fly up and down, some people dangle from side to side, and some people think that chopsticks are caught in a fixed position, which affects the uniform heating of their hairy bellies. They will use chopsticks to turn around the pot with a piece of hairy bellies, which is as flexible as dancing with their heads covered. Old diners never rely on time to iron their hairy bellies, but rely on their eyesight to see that all the hairy bellies in the pot are stiff and slightly curly, and when they swing elastically, they can’t cook any more. But to be honest, even after eating eight hot pots in Chongqing and listening to different people’s experiences in scalding their stomachs, I still dare not say anything about this skill.

Among the hot pot ingredients in Chongqing, the only one that can be compared with beef omasum is duck intestines and goose intestines. Zhang Zhengxiong told me that duck intestines, as ingredients, appeared in the hot pot in Chongqing during the Republic of China, but at that time they were mainly cooked and scalded. The store cooked the duck intestines first, served them on the table, and diners just rinsed them in the pot when eating. Now it’s hot now, and it’s also fresh and crisp.

In fact, following this taste, Chongqing people have developed their ability to dig up ingredients to the extreme and found many tricky ingredients such as yellow throat, waist slices, beef liver and pig root. The yellow throat is the main artery of animals, also known as the heart tube. It existed in Chongqing hot pot during the Republic of China, but it is thicker than the pig’s yellow throat and tastes better. However, if it is not handled well, it is easy to get old and can’t be bitten. Zhang Zhengxiong told me that it is because yellow throat is difficult to deal with. In the past, the level of a chef in a restaurant was determined by how well he did yellow throat. Waist slices and beef liver are relatively popular ingredients, but the thinner they are cut, the more brittle they will be when they are scalded. Because the waist slices are well handled, there is also a chain hotpot restaurant in Chongqing that puts "broadsword waist slices" into the store name. Root was added to hot pot only after the 1980s. Root needs to be cooked for a long time, and its taste is a little strange. But it still ranks among the menus of old hot pot restaurants for a long time because of its crispness.

Most crisp foods are tasteless, which means that the taste of the base soup can only adhere to the surface of the ingredients, which requires dry dishes. A dry dish is actually a dish of dried Chili noodles, with pepper noodles and salt, chicken essence monosodium glutamate and so on. Among them, dried Chili must be coarse-grained, which is not only spicy but also crisp when eaten in the mouth. Dry dishes can be used with almost all ingredients that are not tasty, especially loin slices, except hairy belly, because dry dishes will mask the aroma of hairy belly itself.

In the 1950s, hot pot once disappeared in Chongqing people's diet memory. Why did it become popular in 30 or 40 years?

△ Chongqing people love to eat Jiugongge, and Gege hot dishes are different and have their own rules.

Jiugongge: Order and Freedom

A standard Chongqing hotpot should have a grid and a nine-square grid. Jiugongge originated from assembling tables, and Li Jieren recorded in detail the hot pot compartmentalization during the Republic of China: "At first, it was a general peddler who bought buffalo viscera … a mud stove was placed on the bear’s head, and a compartmentalized ocean iron basin was placed on the stove. A spicy, hemp and salty marinade was boiled upside down in the basin, so the friends by the river and at the bridge, who generally sold labor, and beggars who got a few articles and wanted meat, etc. Everyone thinks that a grid of marinade juice is hot and eaten. Eating a few pieces and counting some money is not only economical, but also can increase calories. "

There is the same record in the book of oral history "Industry and Commerce in Yuzhong". In the book, an old man named Xie Yumei recalled that in the Republic of China, she and her mother set up a table to sell hot pot outside the shack where they lived and took the civilian route. "Generally, in the morning, I will go to Chaotianmen to guard the vegetable boat. The vegetable boat will throw some bad dishes on the river. When we pick them up, we will wash them on the river and carry them back. The cut vegetables are divided into ingredients, and they are cooked in one pot. Each dish is eaten, and there is no oil dish. The rice is casually scooped. " Until the second revival of hot pot in the 1980s, many Chongqing people still had the experience of eating hot pot together.

On the basis of patchwork, the early chafing dish was taboo, and the ingredients with heavy chlorophyll and high starch content could not be put into the pot, because chlorophyll would make the soup black, and starch would easily precipitate and stick to the pot, which would make it paste and bitter, all of which were bad soup and bad water. With the disposable use of base soup, the taboo of ingredients has long been broken, and the inclusiveness of Chongqing hot pot to ingredients is highlighted. Instead of leaving the market, the grid of hot pot born of practicality has developed a unique vitality of food, which comes from the fact that different grids of base soup have different heating areas, different temperatures and different foods that can be boiled.

In the hot pot culture exhibition hall on the first floor of Hongyadong, there is a nine-square-grid heat map, from which we can see that the center grid with the highest heat is the one with the highest temperature, and most of the scalding ingredients with crisp taste finish gorgeous transformation in this grid; The temperature of the four corners is the second, and it is generally used for cooking ingredients that can only be eaten for ten minutes, such as spicy beef, old meat slices, fat intestines, dried liver, potatoes, etc. Cross-grid pot bottom has the smallest heating area, and it will not boil almost all the time. It is suitable for scalding food, such as brain flower, bean curd and blood curd, which can be thrown into these grids, stewed with slow fire, taken out when leaving the table, and feasted.

At first, my understanding of Chongqing hot pot ingredients only came from scalding, but Tan Tinggang told me that people who really eat old hot pot pay special attention to the process of "simmering" in addition to scalding. Only the ingredients simmered slowly can fully absorb the flavor of the bottom soup. Therefore, Chongqing locals eat old hot pot and never order fat beef and sheep rolls of unknown origin. Instead, they love old sliced meat and spicy beef. Tan Tinggang explained to me that the old sliced meat is also called eyebrow meat, which comes from the upper shoulder blades of pigs. It is a muscle that pigs often use during exercise. It weighs about five or six kilograms and is about 20 centimeters long. It is crosscut, and there are several white fat interlaced in the middle. It looks like plum blossom, also called plum blossom meat. Old meat slices must be cut thick, 5 ~ 10 mm is the best, and placed in four corners, it will be more tender and delicious. Unlike the old meat slices that emphasize specific parts, the focus of spicy beef is "spicy". The cut beef will be marinated in advance, wrapped in a layer of Chili noodles, and then thrown into the pot for stew. Well-made spicy beef, the seasoning coded in advance will not fall off when taking out the pot, but the hot pot soup will stimulate the taste buds together.

In Chongqing, no hot pot restaurant dares to claim that its ingredients are perfect, but each one always has its own special ingredients. Tan Tinggang is proud of two kinds of ingredients, one is tiger skin chicken feet, and the other is pure duck blood. Tiger skin chicken feet are cooked first, then fried, finally soaked in cold water, and then served in a pot to cook. The inspiration is obviously from Cantonese chicken feet with soy sauce. Pure duck blood is also a special ingredient of Chongqing hot pot. Hot pots in other places often use fresh duck blood. The so-called fresh duck blood is actually blended with duck blood, and it is jelly-like and tender when cooked. Pure duck blood is 100% duck blood boiled in water first, and then picked up and cut into pieces for later use. This kind of duck blood is full of pores, which can’t be boiled in the pot, and its taste is soft and full of soup, which is completely different from the flavor of fresh duck blood.

Du Jian’s recommended dish on the menu is rake beef, which means close to softness, a kind of softness that melts when it is close to the entrance. This ingredient was inspired by him from braised beef noodles, but he improved it. The braised beef pieces are bigger, close to half a fist, and softer. They are cooked at the back end and served on the table, then stewed in the pot for ten minutes, fished up the oil dish and sent to the mouth, which is a rich color.

Reporter Wang Haiyan Photography Yu Chuzhong

This article was published in the 27th issue of Sanlian Life Weekly in 2019.

Original title: Chongqing hotpot, rich layers in spicy food

[Disclaimer] The texts, pictures, audio and video that are not marked with "Source: Upstream News-chongqing morning post" or "Upstream News LOGO" on the upstream news client are all reposted. If the reposted manuscript involves copyright issues, please contact the upstream news.

I promised her that I would eat braised pork every day after the epidemic.

The exclusive non-fiction works are first published in the mirror column. If you need to reprint them, please contact the backstage of WeChat in Paike Workshop.

Text | huimin jin

Edit | Lin Ziyao

Editor’s note:

On April 7, 2022, Pudong Hospital was transformed into a designated hospital in COVID-19 to treat COVID-19-positive hemodialysis patients. Dr. huimin jin, doctoral supervisor of Fudan University and director of the Department of Nephrology of Pudong Hospital, and his colleagues stuck to their posts in a special period and fought day and night to save many hemodialysis patients.

The following is his medical diary:

April 26, 2022

The 20th day of the designated hospital.

How time flies! In a blink of an eye, I have been in charge of hemodialysis patients in designated hospitals for 20 days. Although some have returned to the community after discharge, there are still patients who are constantly new and seriously ill. Every morning, like a war, it is necessary to focus on the seriously ill patients and decide which patients need bedside dialysis, and the patients whose condition is relatively stable will go to the hemodialysis room for dialysis. The doctor’s advice for hemodialysis should be made on the same day, and the corresponding ward should be informed. Checking nucleic acid is also an important task, which is the standard to judge whether a patient can leave the hospital. The first batch of medical staff in the hospital have changed rooms, but all our nephrologists are in the first batch, and there are no redundant doctors to change with us, so we must continue to work.

Originally, the work has been on the right track, and everyone is proceeding in an orderly way. At the same time, we hope to treat more COVID-19-positive hemodialysis patients. However, this calm mood was interrupted by a sudden notice yesterday afternoon. The hospital asked all positive patients in our hospital to be transferred to other designated hospitals the next day (today) in order to make room for bleeding and provide treatment for more negative hemodialysis patients. So, several doctors filled in all the information of patients to be transferred, wrote the transfer summary and transfer receipt …… and arranged dialysis for hemodialysis patients this morning (Tuesday).

Dr Yang Xiuhong.

After Dr. Yang took over from the night shift, he contacted each ward about dialysis this morning, so as to ensure that after dialysis, the burden of doctors in the next receiving hospital will not be increased, and it is hoped that there will be no more dialysis for a long time and emergency hemodialysis will be needed in the new hospital. Today, all doctors and hemodialysis nurses arrived at their posts during the day to arrange dialysis and transfer to other hospitals. The head nurse of nephrology repeatedly checks the patient information to avoid information errors or missing any hemodialysis patients, and at the same time, she personally checks in the ward to do a good job in the ideological work of each patient’s cooperation with the transfer. Dr. Bao and Dr. Zhang are responsible for the guarantee of bus transshipment, and personally pay full armed to accompany patients to the corresponding hospitals.

The work in designated hospitals should have ended here. According to the regulations, it should be 7+7 (isolation for 7 days+isolation at home for 7 days), but our team can only rest for one week, and other COVID-19-negative patients are waiting for us. I would like to thank all the friends of our hemodialysis team here. Without your support and dedication, everything would be impossible, and it is still vivid to dispatch emergency bedside dialysis every night. ……

List of nine doctors: huimin jin, Gu Huifang, Gu Yanhong, Zhou Dongchi, Zhan Xiaoli, Fu Shunkun, Yang Xiuhong, Bao Wenjing and Zhang Hua.

Doctor’s photo (1)

Thirteen nurses in hemodialysis room: Shen Li, Li Dongfeng, Guo Xiaocui, Huang Minmin, Huang Shidan, Qian Jiayan, Wu Huimin, Gu Xuehua, Zhu Danhong, Zhang Wei, Gu Xiaoli, Chen Xiaoqing and Cao Honghui. Li Li and Lai Bihong, head nurses of nephrology and hemodialysis room. Finally, I would also like to thank Shen Li, the benchmark nurse of hemodialysis, for building a WeChat group for our team-Left-behind Hemodialysis Desperate Saburo. In this group, many important rescues are issued and executed from the group. It may not be appropriate to call Saburo Desperate. There are only three male doctors, and the other doctors and nurses are all women, but it doesn’t matter. Everyone just works hard or Saburo Desperately.

After nearly a month’s treatment of hemodialysis patients in a closed community and 20 days’ experience in a designated hospital, the biggest change is that the hair of our female doctors and nurses in charge of hemodialysis is dry and forked, and half of my own white hair is now completely white. This is the biggest change during the epidemic, and this change will continue. I don’t know when it will end. Let’s experience the feeling of home. Tomorrow will be a 5+2 rest. Tomorrow is also our doctor Yang’s birthday. Her greatest wish is to have a braised pork, but such a simple wish is hard to come true, because we can’t go home. I have promised her that I can let her eat braised pork every day after the epidemic is over.

April 17, 2022

The 11th day of the designated hospital.

Seven o’clock. The epidemic in Shanghai began in mid-March, and it has been a month now.

Our young doctors have experienced too many things that have never been touched before, and they all feel physically and mentally exhausted, and they feel like they are collapsing at any time.

Dr. Zhang Hua is one of the young doctors. Today, I ended my diary with Dr. Zhang Hua’s essay:

When I left home, my little grandpa couldn’t shout clearly. Now he can recognize Arabic numerals, and he has been fighting the epidemic for 42 days in the blink of an eye. I entered the cabin at 2 am last night, and more than eight hours have passed since I came out. I have always felt that some patients are pitiful and always want to be perfect, but there are too many poor people in the world. Classmates say you always pity others. Does anyone pity you? Yes, we are also the poorest people. We always want to protect others as much as possible, but who will protect us? From the first closed-loop week, sleeping in hospital beds and camp beds to living without a fixed place, we have been persisting and persisting.

One day it happened that I was on duty 24 hours a day. At last, after everyone left, the ward was empty, except for the noisy voice of the construction team. I felt scared alone in the duty room. Our patients on the 13th floor temporarily merged into 15A, but the doctor on duty did not have a foothold in 15A, so I went to the 13B duty room for one night.

Later, I heard that the hospital was going to become a control area. Area A was the remaining negative patients, and Area B was the patients from the control area. Later, the hospital arranged a hotel for us, and we finally ended the days of moving around. Slowly, the number of patients in the control area increased, and later, other hospitals transferred a group of patients to our hospital overnight, and some medical staff fell down because of their busy work.

Doctor’s photo (2)

This period of time is the most difficult time in our department. We have to take care of patients across several wards, and there are constant emergency consultations and hemodialysis patients in the middle of the night. The most impressive time for me was that I invited 5-6 urgent consultations in the emergency room one night, which was equivalent to that I hardly slept in the middle of the night. In the most difficult time, only three doctors in our ward were on duty 24 hours a day. Later, there were more and more emergency cases and more and more serious cases. Dr. Fu is our big brother. He shoulders the burden of the control area and consultation. He takes care of all the serious first-aid patients in advance. We three little guys are in charge of the ward, and Director Jin takes the initiative to take the fourth shift of hemodialysis (equivalent to 24-hour round-the-clock rotation in the hemodialysis room).

Because recently, many people can’t get dialysis treatment in time because of closure, and some of them have not had dialysis for 5-6 days, and their lives will be in danger at any time. For them, Director Jin opened the fourth hemodialysis class without hesitation, so we maintained it for some time. Thank you, Brother Fu, for silently taking on so much for us, because he has to keep shuttling through the sealed control area, emergency room and fever clinic (some patients have no nucleic acid reports), and he can only bite the bullet to save his life. Our brother Fu finally fell down. Yes, this is our life. I hope that the epidemic will end as soon as possible, that we will return home as soon as possible, and that our son can recognize his mother … "

May 4, 2022:

Today is the first day of the change from positive to negative. After a short week’s rest, the original dialysis room was completely sterilized, and the first batch of patients were ushered in after many sampling inspections passed. Most of them are our old patients, and everyone is very happy to meet again. It is also orderly to enter the hemodialysis room in the morning, and most of them have 24-hour nucleic acid negative results. Individuals who do not have 24-hour nucleic acid also communicate with patients and their families, and immediately contact the neighborhood Committee to complete the nucleic acid test as soon as possible after returning.

Jin Yisheng examined the patient.

At 5: 30 in the evening, the third class of patients arrived and met another patient who needed temporary deep vein catheterization due to internal fistula occlusion. With the joint efforts of the Deputy Director of Vascular Surgery and Dr. Zhou of Nephrology Department, the catheter was successfully placed and dialysis began immediately. Today, three classes of dialysis, Nephrology dispatched nine doctors, cooperated together, and the division of labor was clear, and the dialysis of nearly 200 patients in three classes was completed in an orderly manner.

Today, the weather is fine, and the sun is shining brightly during the day, but our medical and service staff still need to put on white clothes, and they are already sweating before they work. The third nurse kept calling for heat after getting on the plane, but there was no way but to endure it. I hope these days will end as soon as possible.

The happiest thing today is that our doctor Fu has recovered. He is in the third shift today, and his spirit is very good. Together with him and Dr. Yang, I checked the patients in the third shift well. Dr. Fu particularly emphasized one patient. This patient is an old patient in our center. Last night, he went to Chuansha People’s Hospital because of chest pain. In the emergency department, he checked his electrocardiogram and myocardial enzymes, all of which were abnormal, but the patient refused to be hospitalized. Dialysis happened to consult Dr. Xiao Fu again this evening. Dr. Xiao Fu patiently and carefully looked at all the tests of the patient and thought that acute myocardial infarction could not be ruled out. He suggested that the patient go to Chuansha Hospital immediately after dialysis tonight, because the emergency room of Pudong Hospital was temporarily closed, and the hospital was a designated COVID-19 positive hospital. Everything is for the safety of patients, and Dr. Xiao Fu has brought the concept of our department to the extreme. This is our work style, and we praise such doctors.

 

How popular is "Chongqing, online celebrity" on May 1st? Big data comes out to analyze the heat of scenic spots.

How popular is "Chongqing, online celebrity" on May 1st? Big data comes out to analyze the heat of scenic spots.

  Zhongxin. com, Chongqing, May 4th (Ma Jiaxin, Gao Lv Yanxing) During this holiday, "online celebrity Chongqing" continued to be screened in the circle of friends, including the realistic version of Hongyadong in Spirited Away, the Airbus Yangtze River cableway, the light rail passing through the building, the Ordovician hanging gallery in the sky, and the 8D magic city observation deck & HELIP; … There are crowds everywhere. How hot is Chongqing tourism? Chongqing Tourism Commission announced that Chongqing received a total of 17.3575 million domestic and foreign tourists in three days, achieving a total tourism revenue of 11.248 billion yuan, up 21.6% and 30.5% respectively.

  The data shows that during the May Day period, there were 10,461,400 mobile phone roaming in Chongqing, up 9.4% year-on-year. Among them: 4,005,000 roaming trips into Chongqing, up 4.3% year-on-year; The top five roaming in Chongqing are: Sichuan, Guangdong, Guizhou, Hubei and Zhejiang. 6,456,400 roaming trips from Chongqing, up 12.8% year-on-year; The top five roamers from Chongqing are: Sichuan, Guangdong, Guizhou, Zhejiang and Hubei.

  During the "May 1" period, the holiday tourism consumption in this city was strong, and the tourism market continued to grow. City tour, country tour and boutique scenic spot tour have become the first choice for tourists. The popularity of "online celebrity Scenic Spot" is bursting, and tourism festivals are colorful.

  On the same day, Chongqing Mobile Company also released "May 1" big data. According to the statistics of big data, the passenger flow into Chongqing during the May Day holiday was as high as 470,000, an increase of 22% compared with May Day last year. The peak of this small holiday was on April 29th.

  Who made Chongqing a "online celebrity"? According to big data analysis, the sources of passenger flow in Chongqing on May 1st mainly come from Sichuan, Guizhou, Guangdong and other places, accounting for more than 60% after 80s and 90s. After coming to Chongqing, Yuzhong District has almost become a must. During the May Day holiday, "Hongyadong" became a popular tourist attraction after the Forbidden City.

  It is worth mentioning that with the popularity of a short video APP in China, Chongqing Hongyadong, Yangtze River Cableway, Liziba light rail and other scenic spots have become "online celebrity attractions", attracting a large number of domestic and foreign tourists.

  In three days, Yuzhong District received 3.026 million tourists, up 18.9% year-on-year, and realized tourism income of 832 million yuan, up 20.3% year-on-year. Hongyadong Scenic Area received 142,000 tourists, a year-on-year increase of 120%; Ciqikou ancient town received 195,700 tourists, a year-on-year increase of 10.1%; Guanyinqiao business circle urban tourist area received 213,000 tourists, up 9.5% year-on-year.

  The most prosperous business district in Chongqing is Guanyinqiao business district, which attracted 417,000 people during May Day, of which 18% were from other places and 67% were from the main city. According to big data, the proportion of people from other places in Jie Fangbei is as high as 42%.

  According to the data released by Chongqing Tourism Development Committee, during the holiday, various districts and counties in Chongqing also carried out colorful tourism festivals. Huayan Tourist Area in Jiulongpo hosted the 2018 Spring Tea Party of Zen Forest and Fudi, the 2nd Colorful Grass-skiing Challenge of Geleshan International Slow City in Shapingba, the fairy mountain Banquet Lantern Festival held in fairy mountain in Wulong, and the 1st World Miao Culture and Art Festival and the 20th Miao Mountain Treading Meeting held in Wansheng Shilin Scenic Area in 2018, which increased the fun of the tour through colorful tourism festivals.

  The data shows that Huayan Tourist Area in Jiulongpo District received 42,600 tourists, a year-on-year increase of 21.7%; Wulong karst tourist area received 120,600 tourists, up 10.85% year-on-year; Fuling Wuling Mountain Rift Valley Scenic Area received 30,000 tourists, a year-on-year increase of 52.3%; Wansheng Black Valley Scenic Area received 24,800 tourists, a year-on-year increase of 13.2%.

Heterogeneous in the transmission! Analysis of Toyota E-CVT transmission

  [Pacific Auto Network Technology Channel]What is it? Can realize the automobileSpeed change, torque change, direction change and on-off powerThe device is the transmission. The first car in the world was born in 1886, and the first transmission appeared soon after. It can be said that the development of transmission and automobile are synchronous. At first glance, E-, maybe everyone will naturally think of CVT, that is, CVT. Functionally speaking, E-CVT does have the function of stepless speed change, but structurally speaking, the difference between them is too great. It can even be said that there are two types of transmissions, one is E-CVT and the other is other transmissions.

● Introduction of E-CVT

  At the beginning, we mentioned that E-CVT is not a simple "electronically controlled continuously variable transmission", so of course it is not circulated on the Internet. It is an electronic version of CVT. Toyota’s official definition is "power distributor", because it does not have complex mechanisms such as traditional gearbox system or gear shaft set, and it is a power distribution mechanism specially prepared for hybrid vehicles. Therefore, there has always been a debate: is E-CVT a transmission?

 

For more articles about gearbox classification, please click the following figure to browse:

Inner chain 1

 

  Whether it is a transmission or not, we will discuss it later. What we can see is that the THS( Hybrid System) is becoming more and more mature from 200h to the later hybrid version. As a key component of the whole system, E-CVT undoubtedly plays a vital role. 

Ingenious conception and good economy! Full analysis of ECVT transmission

E-CVT structure

  If you look at it from the perspective of traditional transmission, the structure of E-CVTIt’s really, really simple. Many times, the more perfect things are, the simpler they are. I think this must be the truth. As a masterpiece of hybrid cars, Prius has been carrying the core hybrid technology, so the next analysis takes Toyota Prius as an example.

Ingenious conception and good economy! Full analysis of ECVT transmission

  The structure of E-CVT is very simple, only made up ofExternal gear ring(The outer gear ring here connects the No.2 motor and the output shaft at the same time) andplanetary carrier(connection) andSun gear(connected to No.1 motor), that is, the power transmission flow is:No.2 motor — External gear ring — output shaftAt the same time, due to the existence of planetary gear sets, there are also:Engine — Planetary group — External gear ring — output shaft. The following physical picture was taken from a foreign video.

Ingenious conception and good economy! Full analysis of ECVT transmission

  If you look closely, you can’t help wondering: Isn’t this the structure? Yes, E-CVT is made up of a planetary gear set reduction mechanism (The red box in the picture above.)。 There is no chain or steel belt in CVT, let alone the torque converter in AT or the double clutch in DCT. So, the problem is coming. . . Ahem. Can an E-CVT with such a simple structure really achieve stepless speed change? The answer is of course!

E-CVT principle

Overview:

  In fact, E-CVT is not very complicated only from the perspective of mechanical motion principle. How complicated can the motion of a planetary gear set be? What is complicated is its electronic control unit, that is, the logical principle of electromechanical cooperation. Before introducing the working principle, briefly list some noun notes that will be used below:

PCU:Power Control Unit (Power control unit) This is an essential part of a hybrid car, which contains a voltage converter and an inverter, and can adjust the output voltage of the battery pack. For example, high voltage (about 600V) must be used to supply power to the motor, and the voltage of the battery pack is up to about 200V due to the size limitation, so the transformer is essential. butThe function of inverter is to change DC to AC or vice versa.Because the high-voltage AC motor has the advantages of small size, high efficiency and large size, and the battery pack emits direct current, an inverter is necessary between the motor and the battery pack.

1:That is, motor generator 1 is connected with the sun gear.

MG2:Namely motor generator 2, andExternal gear ringConnect.

  Attribute diagram of two motors:

Ingenious conception and good economy! Full analysis of ECVT transmission

  The engine of Prius is Atkinson engine, which is characterized by good intermediate speed performance, insufficient high and low speed performance and high energy utilization rate;

Ingenious conception and good economy! Full analysis of ECVT transmission

  To facilitate understanding, put a simplified E-CVT structure diagram:

Ingenious conception and good economy! Full analysis of ECVT transmission

  Next is the power distribution diagram.

Ingenious conception and good economy! Full analysis of ECVT transmission

  First of all, we need to be clear about a concept:Power is the product of combination with rotational speed.(power = torque × rotational speed),

  Then because there are four that canFree revolutionPlanetary gear, it can be imagined that when the gear ring is fixed (that is, the wheel is fixed), the sun gear (MG1) can only drive the planetary gear seat (that is, the engine) to rotate (that is, start the engine process) when the planetary gear rotates;

  With the rotation of planetary gears, when the ring gear (MG2) rotates forward, the sun gear (MG1) can also rotate backward. Conversely, when the ring gear (MG2) rotates reversely, the sun gear (MG1) can rotate forward again.

  For example, when the outer ring gear and the sun gear rotate in the same direction, the planetary gears can not rotate, but only revolve, thus driving the gasoline engine to rotate. When the planetary gear seat does not rotate, the ring gear and the sun gear can still rotate freely. It is precisely because of this ingenious characteristic of the planetary gear set,Only when the engine, wheels and motor are connected together can they run without interfering with each other.Therefore, the clutch structure is omitted.

Ingenious conception and good economy! Full analysis of ECVT transmission

  S=C×3.6-R×2.6

  In the formula, s = sun = sun gear, c = carrier = line constellation, and r = ring = outer gear ring.

  In addition, since the diameters and teeth numbers of the external gear, the sun gear and the planetary gear have been fixed, it can also be obtained according to the formula on the drawing:When the planetary constellation rotates in the middle, the torque ratio allocated to the outer ring gear and the sun gear is certain.. The specific value is about72%Allocated to the external gear (actually 2.6÷3.6),28%Allocated to the sun gear (1-72%). As long as the engine rotates to work, it will not change this basic fact.

Ingenious conception and good economy! Full analysis of ECVT transmission

  Then we all know that under a series of different working conditions, the requirements for torque are greatly changed. Traditional power vehicles need a transmission to adjust the output power of the engine. However, in this specific structure of E-CVT, because there are two motors, under different working conditions,According to the above formula. As long as the different rotational speeds of these two motors are controlled, the engine power obtained on the outer gear ring can be changed infinitely, so that the automobile can achieve stepless speed change.

  As for how the PCU of Prius can control the fuel supply of the engine and the voltage, phase and positive and negative on-off of the two motors in real time according to the running conditions of the car. The control logic involved and the data collection and processing procedures of many sensors are too complicated to be described here. Understand that E-CVT can realize stepless speed change.

 

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Detailed explanation of working conditions

  The following analyzes the speed change process of E- one by one from various operating conditions:

I. Idle running (hot car)

  After the start command is issued, it starts (rotates forward) in an instant and drives the start. The whole process is extremely fast and smooth.

Ingenious conception and good economy! Full analysis of ECVT transmission

  After the engine is started, it runs at idle speed, and the gasoline engine drives the planetary constellation to rotate forward. Because the wheel (outer ring gear) does not rotate, the forward rotation of the planetary gear set (engine) will drive the sun gear (MG1) to rotate forward through the planetary gears. MG1 no longer receives power from the battery pack, but becomes a generator.Emit alternating current, through the inverter and voltage converter in PCU, it becomes low-voltage DC and charges the battery pack. In short, at idle speed,The whole engine is used to charge the battery pack..

Ingenious conception and good economy! Full analysis of ECVT transmission

Second, start

  After the start signal is sent, a small amount of power will be connected to the No.2 motor, and MG2 will start to rotate. Drive the wheel (outer gear ring) to start forward rotation, and the car moves slowly. When you press the accelerator pedal slightly hard, the No.2 motor will get more power and the Prius will accelerate. Because the power of No.2 motor is very high (50KW), the low speed is also very high. Under the control of PCU, the acceleration of the car is very soft.Even by MG2 aloneYou can accelerate the Prius to a considerable speed! This starting process gives full play to MG2.Low speed and high torsionTo make up for the embarrassing situation of insufficient low-speed torque of the engine.

Ingenious conception and good economy! Full analysis of ECVT transmission

  It is worth noting that if the engine is not working at this time (starting in pure electric mode), with the increase of the rotational speed of MG2, the rotational speed of MG1 will also increase rapidly. Because the speed of MG1 has an upper limit, when it reaches the upper limit, the engine is forced to start to intervene. There is a critical speed at this time. Although this speed is fixed, it is certain that the greater the intensity of stepping on the accelerator at the start, the earlier the gasoline engine will intervene (actively intervene). If you step on the accelerator all at once, the gasoline will ignite immediately.

  In most cases, MG2 can smoothly accelerate the Prius to a good speed, but in some cases, there will be a phenomenon of insufficient power. This is what the engine will pass after intervention.Driving MG1 to generate electricity for MG2.andDirectly drive the external gear to rotate to push the wheel.Two ways to output power, it is worth mentioning that these two ways can exist at the same time. As for the proportion of each other, it depends on many factors.

Ingenious conception and good economy! Full analysis of ECVT transmission

Third, small load acceleration

  When accelerating under light load, the wheels are mainly driven by MG2. With the speed of MG2 increasing, the speed of reverse rotation of the four planetary gears gradually decreases. When the speed of the gear ring is the same as that of the planetary constellation (engine), the rotation of the planetary gears stops, leaving only revolution. At this time, the planetary constellation (engine) pushes the gear ring (wheel) and sun gear (No.1 motor) through the four planetary gears that are no longer rotating, and the three speeds are consistent. MG1 continues to supply power to MG2 and charges the power battery through PCU. Thereafter, the speed of MG2 continues to increase until the vehicle reaches the target speed. At this time, the sun gear rotation speed is less than the rotation speed of the constellation.

Ingenious conception and good economy! Full analysis of ECVT transmission

Fourth, heavy load acceleration

  In the face of heavy load acceleration (such as load starting), the power of MG2 can’t keep up.Engine speed increaseEntering its economic operation range, the power of the engine is greatly improved. Because the torque increase of the engine further drives MG1 to generate electricity and the power obtained by the outer ring gear increases, at the same time, the battery pack will also supply power to MG2. Thanks to this, MG2 enters the "full firepower" mode.

Ingenious conception and good economy! Full analysis of ECVT transmission

Fourth, driving at a constant speed

  Driving at a constant speed occurs after the acceleration is completed. At this time, the Prius only needs to overcome all kinds of resistance, and the demand for power and torque is greatly reduced. After the throttle is relaxed, the speed of the gasoline engine decreases, and the speed of the gear ring (wheel) is higher than that of the planetary carrier (gasoline engine). At this time, the four planetary gears began to rotate forward. This forward rotation will drive the sun gear (MG1) to reverse.

  There is something special here, as we learned from the previous article. When the power from the engine is transmitted to the outer ring gear and the sun gear through the planet carrier, the rotational speeds of the outer ring gear and the sun gear will satisfy the following formula.

  S=C×3.6-R×2.6

  When the rotating speed of the outer gear ring is higher than that of the planetary carrier, that is, when R>C, it is obvious that S < 0, that is, it is reversed. However, if the reverse rotation of sun gear at this time is idling (without any resistance), it will rotate so fast that all the power from the engine will be absorbed by MG1 and the external gear ring cannot be driven (because it is obviously much easier to drive sun gear than to drive the external gear ring). Therefore, MG1 will need to work in the motor mode here, so that the planet carrier can’t drive the sun gear to fly at high speed and waste the power of the engine.

  But wouldn’t that be a waste of electricity? Therefore, in general, when cruising at high speed, MG2 becomes a generator to maintain the rotation of MG1.

Ingenious conception and good economy! Full analysis of ECVT transmission

  In fact, during the whole driving process of Prius, the state of acceleration and uniform driving is constantly switching. The phase of voltage and current will be adjusted by PCU according to various operation actions such as stepping on the accelerator and releasing the accelerator, and various driving conditions of the car, and the output power and rotating direction of the motor will be changed instantly, and the functions of the two motors will be switched.

Fifth, slow down

  In fact, the deceleration is relatively simple, with the engine turned off and the MG1 idling. MG2 is driven by the wheel and becomes a generator to absorb the deceleration energy of the wheel. And charge the battery pack.

Ingenious conception and good economy! Full analysis of ECVT transmission

Sixth, reverse the car

  Thanks to the large torque of MG2, the torque MG2 required by the Prius when reversing can be easily provided. The battery pack supplies power to MG2, which drives the external gear ring to reverse, and the vehicle finishes reversing.

Ingenious conception and good economy! Full analysis of ECVT transmission

  In the whole driving process of Prius, we can see that it is actually a process in which two motors and engines cooperate with each other to perfectly perform linear output under strict electromechanical conversion logic control. The basis of this perfect cooperation is the special structure of E-CVT. Because power = torque × rotational speed, the planetary gear set structure with proportionally distributed torque and infinitely distributed rotational speed enables the power of the engine to be infinitely distributed to the outer gear ring (i.e. wheels) at any time and place, thus completing all functions of the ordinary stepping gearbox!

  The following table shows the running state of each gear of E-CVT during the whole process:

Ingenious conception and good economy! Full analysis of ECVT transmission

  You can also refer to the following video to improve your understanding of the operating relationship between planetary gears, sun gears and external gear rings.

Prospect of E-CVT

  The appearance of gearbox was born in order to meet the different power requirements under various complex working conditions. Before it appeared, drivers needed to judge the road conditions and car conditions themselves to shift up and down in time. The advantage of this method is a strong sense of driving operation. After all, experienced drivers know what kind of power the car needs better than ECU. In addition, the advantages of simple structure, easy maintenance and small size also make the car with manual transmission have a large number of fans no matter where it is suitable.

  The appearance of automatic gearbox is actually very early, but the real large-scale application was in the 1980 s, and it was also a free ride with the rapid development of electronic technology. Because automatic transmission is not difficult, it is difficult to change the speed more accurately. In the mechanical age, technology is obviously difficult to achieve, but nowadays, more and more intelligent ECU makes automatic transmission more and more able to understand your driving intention. But even so, the automatic gearbox still has defects:There is shift clearance.Even DCT can’t realize the real "stepless speed change".

  As for the protagonist E-CVT in this paper, it can be said that it has reached the peak of the integration of electromechanical technology in the gearbox field. First of all, its logic control system is very complicated. In addition, it can effectively make up for the short board (low transmission power) of the traditional stepless gearbox, which integratesHigh power, quick response, stepless speed change and extremely high transmission efficiency.And other advantages in one. But it also has disadvantages:The support system is too complicated.We know that once any system is too complicated, the probability of problems will increase exponentially. 

Ingenious conception and good economy! Full analysis of ECVT transmission

summary

  Let’s make a simple summary of E-CVT:

1. Very smooth, extremely smooth

2, the transmission efficiency is high

3, simple structure and small volume

  Let’s go back to the question at the beginning of the article about whether E-CVT is right or not. Let’s put it this way: If other power sources were not needed to cooperate with it, I’m afraid E-CVT technology would have unified the gearbox field long ago. It is precisely because of this "fatal" defect that it is simply tailored for hybrid models. Writing this analysis is not entirely for the sake of popular science, but I hope that everyone can learn more about this somewhat heterogeneous and unknown transmission structure and its thinking. Because I firmly believe that in the future when fossil energy is exhausted, E-CVT will finally shine!

Guangzhou released the first batch of typical cases of illegal advertisements in 2024.

Guangzhou released the first batch of typical cases of illegal advertisements in 2024. In 2024, Guangzhou Municipal Market Supervision Administration solidly carried out the special treatment of false illegal advertisements, deeply promoted the supervision of the entire chain of advertising operations in related fields, and effectively maintained the order of the city’s advertising market. Now some typical cases of illegal advertisements are announced. 1. A South Network Technology Co., Ltd. in Guangzhou released an illegal advertisement case. The parties posted advertisements such as "The first in China to break through the technical bottleneck and realize multi-channel intelligent crawling", "Support automatic crawling of anyone’s WeChat friends circle to their own stores" and "One-click collection of goods from major e-commerce platforms to generate micro-malls or forward friends circle sales" on their development and operation websites. The parties can’t provide any materials to prove "the first in China", and the software needs to be verified by both parties when acquiring and forwarding graphic information in WeChat circle of friends. In e-commerce platforms such as Tmall Taobao, registered users of the platform are also required to use it conditionally. The above-mentioned behavior of the parties violated the provisions of Paragraph 1 of Article 4 and Paragraph 2 (2) of Article 28 of People’s Republic of China (PRC) Advertising Law, and the Baiyun District Market Supervision Bureau ordered the parties to stop publishing illegal advertisements according to the provisions of Paragraph 1 of Article 55 of People’s Republic of China (PRC) Advertising Law, and imposed a fine of 350,000 yuan. Second, Zhongen Moding (Guangdong) Great Health Industry Development Co., Ltd. released an illegal advertisement case. The party posted on its WeChat WeChat official account that "the company is 100% owned by the State Council Assets Supervision and Administration Commission and is subordinate to central enterprises …""The company joined hands with Tsinghua University Research Institute, Guangzhou Pharmaceutical Group, Tongjun Baicao and Yuansen Medicine, and reached strategic cooperation with more than 50 high-flow media such as Today Headline, Tik Tok, Aauto Quicker and Tencent …" And other contents, claiming that it is the national operation center for public welfare screening of women’s reproductive health, the national authorization for public welfare screening of women’s reproductive health, the reproductive health sub-channel of the people’s health TV channel of the National Health and Wellness Commission, etc., are all fictitious. The above actions of the parties violated the provisions of Paragraph 1 of Article 4 and Paragraph 2 (2) of Article 28 of the Advertising Law of People’s Republic of China (PRC), and the Baiyun District Market Supervision Bureau ordered the parties to stop publishing illegal advertisements and imposed a fine of 210,000 yuan according to the provisions of Paragraph 1 of Article 55 of the Advertising Law of People’s Republic of China (PRC). 3. In the case of an illegal advertisement released by Shanghai to Guangzhou Branch of Advertising Communication Co., Ltd., the client was entrusted by Guangzhou Meishiqin Medical Beauty Co., Ltd. to release 38 medical beauty advertisement posters in the elevator space of Guangzhou Community within 3 kilometers of Guangzhou Meishiqin Medical Beauty Co., Ltd. The above advertisement contents released by the client were completely different from the advertisement samples corresponding to the advertisement examination and approval documents, and contained "Meishiqin didn’t cut the eye bags", "no pain, no trace", "no rebound after treatment" and "just do it and leave". The above-mentioned behavior of the parties violated the provisions of Item (1) of Paragraph 1 of Article 16 and Article 46 of the Advertising Law of People’s Republic of China (PRC).Huangpu District Market Supervision Bureau ordered the parties concerned to stop publishing illegal advertisements, confiscated advertising expenses of 1,900 yuan and imposed a fine of 2,500 yuan in accordance with the provisions of Item (1) and Item (14) of Paragraph 1 of Article 58 of People’s Republic of China (PRC) Advertising Law. Iv. A bank (Guangzhou) Culture and Art Consulting Co., Ltd. released an illegal advertisement. The parties posted an advertisement on WeChat WeChat official account’s "Studio on a bank in Guangzhou", in which the title page of "Top team of [Guang Mei assault class] took you to sprint and hit Guang Mei directly in 7 days" used "465 certificates obtained by students from the 2023 bank: Guangzhou Academy of Fine Arts, 6 seats with a single subject score of 95 or above, and 52 with a score of 240 or above. I’ll take you for seven days and go straight to Guang Mei. The number of students enrolled in the 23 rd session of Guangzhou Academy of Fine Arts is 134, and one of the 8 students enrolled in Guangzhou Academy of Fine Arts is a student from a certain shore. " The text propaganda, make a guarantee commitment to the effect of education and training. In the fourth part of the article, the names and photos of five top scholars and five single-subject top scholars were publicized in the example of "All previous students on a certain shore realized their dreams in Guang Mei", and in "3, they were educated in Guangmei, and outstanding flowers blossomed", the images of Liu Mouyu, Xiang Mouyue and Zhuang Motong were used to make videos, and the names of the beneficiaries were used for recommendation and proof. The above-mentioned behavior of the parties violates the provisions of Item (1) and Item (3) of Article 24 of People’s Republic of China (PRC) Advertising Law. According to the provisions of Item (6) of Paragraph 1 of Article 58 of People’s Republic of China (PRC) Advertising Law,Ordered the parties to stop publishing illegal advertisements and imposed a fine of 130,000 yuan. 5. A biotechnology company in Guangzhou Yide released an illegal advertisement case. Through Baidu Health Smart applet, the parties released advertisements such as "Adapting to leukoplakia, vitiligo and sweat spots", "Product name" Herb bacteriostatic spray of psoralea corylifolia leukoplakia "and" Approval number: Ganweixiaozheng Zi (2017)No. C002 "on the product page of Kangmeilian Psoralea Leukoplakia, accompanied by corresponding pictures of symptoms. The parties concerned posted advertisements for medical devices on the product page of "Doctor Gong’s Acupoint Pressure Stimulation Sticker" that had not been reviewed by the advertising review organ. On the product page of "Compound Polypeptide Shiqingsu", the party concerned published "Guarantee of imported raw materials of Yiqi Shiqingsu compound polypeptide tablets on Japanese Hanfang Pharmaceutical Day" and "This product is commissioned for domestic production by Japanese joint research and development formula without using any Japanese raw materials", explaining the contradiction of raw materials and origin of the product. The above actions of the parties violate the provisions of the first paragraph of Article 8, Article 17 and Article 46 of the Advertising Law of People’s Republic of China (PRC). Panyu District Market Supervision Bureau ordered the parties concerned to stop publishing advertisements and imposed a fine of 87,000 yuan in accordance with the provisions of Item (2) and Item (14) of Paragraph 1 of Article 58 of People’s Republic of China (PRC) Advertising Law. 6. A Baoli Real Estate Industry Co., Ltd. in Panyu District, Guangzhou released an illegal advertisement case. In order to promote its "Nantian Mingyuan" project, the party posted a message containing "Nantian Mingyuan, which takes 15 minutes to reach the CBD of Zhujiang New Town" and "Water meets three bends,Longevity and leisure’ is like a dragon, echoing the pearl water’ Long Mai’, forming an upper and upper realm of harmony between man and nature, which is a rare blessed land of’ hiding wind and gathering gas’. ""There are 21 high-quality schools around 10 minutes’ drive to support education "and other promotional contents. The above actions of the parties violated the provisions of Article 8, Paragraph 1, Article 9, Item 8 and Article 26, Item 2 of People’s Republic of China (PRC) Advertising Law, and Panyu District Market Supervision Bureau ordered the parties to stop publishing according to the provisions of Article 57, Item 1, Article 58, Paragraph 1, Item 8 and Article 59, Paragraph 1, Item 1 of People’s Republic of China (PRC) Advertising Law. Seven, Guangzhou Kangkang Health Technology Co., Ltd. released an illegal advertisement case, and the parties advertised in the online shop of platform 1688 that the product of "multifunctional graphene bio-resonance energy chamber for detoxification, dehumidification and fat reduction" has the advantages of "deep detoxification to promote metabolism", "activating environmental protection in cells", "improving immunity and activating human self-healing ability", and advertised that ordinary electrical products have graphene, far infrared rays, "cell repair" terahertz "and" dredging blood vessels ". The above-mentioned behavior of the parties violates the provisions of Article 17 and Article 28, paragraph 2 (2) and (4) of the Advertising Law of People’s Republic of China (PRC). Huadu District Market Supervision Bureau, in accordance with the provisions of Article 55, paragraph 1, of the Advertising Law of People’s Republic of China (PRC),Ordered the parties to stop publishing illegal advertisements and imposed a fine of 29,000 yuan. Eight, Changchun Rentang Pharmacy Co., Ltd. released an illegal advertisement case. Knowing that the "tortoise and snake wine" promoted was a drug, the parties released 120 issues of "Healthy Gas Station" and 2 issues of "Looking for Health Together" on the economic and scientific education channel of a radio and television station, and repeatedly appeared in the advertisements to recommend the efficacy of the drug in the name of patients and experts and "taking it for one month continuously: the symptoms were relieved, the vigor improved and the self-healing ability improved" The above actions of the parties violate Article 46 of the Advertising Law of People’s Republic of China (PRC) and Item (2) of Article 11 of the Interim Measures for the Examination and Management of Advertisements of Drugs, Medical Devices, Health Foods and Formulated Foods for Special Medical Uses. Yuexiu District Market Supervision Bureau ordered the parties concerned to stop publishing illegal advertisements and imposed a fine of 61,000 yuan in accordance with the provisions of Items (1) and (14) of Paragraph 1 of Article 58 of People’s Republic of China (PRC) Advertising Law. Nine, Guangzhou Zhongmou Energy Technology Co., Ltd. released an illegal advertisement case. The parties used the term "100,000-class medical equipment dust-free purification workshop" in the "About China Hydrogen" page of their own website, but failed to provide the inspection report or certification certificate of their workshop; Use the term "history is better than 99% of the same industry factories", in which the data "99%" does not indicate the source and cannot provide relevant evidence to prove its authenticity; On this websiteIn the product details pages of QM-3000, QM-1500 and QM-1000 intelligent hydrogen and oxygen machines under the Product Center page, the terms "serious illness and chronic illness maintenance to improve the quality of life" and "suitable for chronic illness and middle-aged and elderly health care" are used, which easily confuses the products promoted by them with medical devices. The above actions of the parties violate the provisions of Paragraph 1 of Article 8, Paragraph 2 of Article 11 and Article 17 of the Advertising Law of People’s Republic of China (PRC). Nansha District Comprehensive Administrative Law Enforcement Bureau ordered the parties concerned to stop publishing illegal advertisements and imposed a fine of 50,000 yuan in accordance with the provisions of Item (2) of Paragraph 1 of Article 58 and Item (1) and Item (2) of Paragraph 1 of Article 59 of People’s Republic of China (PRC) Advertising Law. X. A Jitang Medical Device Co., Ltd. in Guangzhou released illegal advertisements. The parties released uncensored advertisements for medical devices such as Zushu cold compress gel, Keji spray, Xiaozhi gel and Luomai medical fixing belt in Tmall and JD.COM online stores; KAER electric heating series daily necessities are labeled as "medical electric heating kneepads, knee joints, meniscus injuries, physical therapy instruments, warm rheumatic arthritis, hot compress massage", which uses the term that confuses ordinary commodities with drugs and medical devices; On the product page of "Nanjing Tongrentang Huanglian Bacteriostatic Liquid", the advertisement "Three traditional bacteriostatic liquid products have no ingredients with poor product effect, and it is not safe to use them generally, which is troublesome and wastes time. The production source of Nanjing Tongrentang Huanglian Bacteriostatic Liquid can be traced back to the plant ingredients, which is convenient and labor-saving", but it cannot provide evidence.The above-mentioned behavior of the parties violated the provisions of Paragraph 1 of Article 4, Item (2) and Item (3) of Paragraph 2 of Article 28, Article 17 and Article 46 of People’s Republic of China (PRC) Advertising Law, and Zengcheng Market Supervision Bureau ordered the parties to stop publishing illegal advertisements according to Paragraph 1 of Article 55 and Item (2) and Item (14) of Paragraph 1 of Article 58 of People’s Republic of China (PRC) Advertising Law.

General Administration of Market Supervision: Ten Characteristics of Consumer Complaints in 2022

  Cctv newsAccording to the website of the General Administration of Market Supervision, in 2022, the national market supervision departments received a total of 29.4077 million consumer complaints, reports and inquiries through the national 12315 platform, telephone, fax, window and other channels, with a year-on-year increase of 23.5%. Among them, there were 13,103,800 complaints and 4,722,300 reports, which saved economic losses of 4,519 million yuan for consumers and effectively protected their legitimate rights and interests. It mainly presents ten characteristics:

  First, the acceleration of consumer complaints, the recovery and expansion of consumption needs balanced development.

  From the trend of the past three years, due to the cross-regional expansion of platform economy, the cross-regional flow of population capital and the cross-regional allocation of market factors, the consumption of Guangdong, Zhejiang, Shanghai and Beijing is accelerating. There is a positive correlation between the number of consumer complaints and the level of consumer activity. The proportion of consumer complaints in the four provinces and cities in the country has increased from 31.8% in 2020 to 45.16% in 2022. To some extent, the accelerated gathering of consumer complaints reflects the unbalanced development of the supply side of consumption, so it is necessary to further restore and expand consumption in the central and western regions and promote higher quality and more balanced development.

  Second, recover the loss of over 10 billion yuan, boost confidence and release vitality.

  In the past three years, in the face of the impact of the epidemic, the downward pressure on the economy and the impact of the international situation, improving the consumption environment, stabilizing consumption and promoting consumption have become important supports for stabilizing the economic market and safeguarding people’s livelihood and well-being. Market supervision departments at all levels have handled a total of 74.5229 million complaints, reports and consultations, recovering economic losses of 14.472 billion yuan for consumers, effectively defending consumers’ legitimate rights and interests, and protecting consumption power and economic endogenous motivation. We will strengthen the maintenance of commodity services concerned by the masses. For example, the mediation success rate of fiber products, medical devices, production, maintenance and repair services has increased significantly compared with the previous year, with an increase of 15.51, 13.15 and 12.26 percentage points respectively.

  Through the continuous evaluation of "five-level circular linkage", the disposal efficiency of the national 12315 platform has been greatly improved. The timely handling rate of complaints and reports was as high as 98.99%, an increase of 12.55 percentage points; The highest satisfaction of the masses is 4.74 points (out of 5 points). At present, the platform has accumulated 16.0108 million registered users, with an average annual growth of 3 million, and has become a consumer rights protection platform trusted by the people.

  Three, rapid response, strong disposal, complaints and reports of epidemic-related materials fell rapidly.

  After the promulgation of "Article 20" and "New Article 10", the focus of epidemic prevention shifted from prevention and control of infection to medical treatment. The demand for epidemic-related drugs and medical supplies surged, the supply was not smooth, the price fluctuated abnormally, and product quality problems frequently occurred. At one time, the number of related complaints and reports increased by spurt. From November 10, 2022 to the end of 2022, the national 12315 platform received 241,100 related complaints and reports, up 3.88 times year-on-year, 2.95 times quarter-on-quarter, and the highest peak reached 19.5 times. Among them, there were 141,800 complaints and 99,300 reports, recovering economic losses of 4,981,700 yuan.

  The market supervision department responded quickly, launched a special campaign to stabilize the price and guarantee the quality of epidemic-related drugs and medical supplies at the first time, promptly checked the complaints and reports of epidemic-related drugs and medical supplies, and fully protected the health and safety of the people, with a total of 12,900 cases filed. As of February 10th, the reports on epidemic-related prices, unfair competition and advertisements, online transaction supervision, product quality, and the production and circulation of drugs and medical devices have dropped by 99.14%, 87.87%, 73.89%, 88.35% and 87.79% on an average daily basis, and the demands for epidemic-related drugs and medical supplies have returned to daily life, and the market order tends to be stable.

  Fourth, the downward pressure on the economy has increased, and after-sales problems such as non-delivery and non-refund have become more prominent.

  In 2022, the national market supervision department accepted 13.1038 million consumer complaints, a year-on-year increase of 43.84%, and the growth rate was enlarged compared with 2021. From the complaints, there were 2,987,000 pieces of quality, 2,489,600 pieces of after-sales service, 1,159,100 pieces of contract and 1,090,600 pieces of food safety, accounting for 58.96% of the total complaints. Among them, the problem of after-sales service grew fastest, and the masses reflected it most strongly, with a year-on-year increase of 57.67%.

  After-sales service status is directly related to operators’ confidence and expectation. Affected by the epidemic, the problem of after-sales service has been highlighted. Consumer demands mainly focus on non-refund, non-delivery, non-performance of the "three guarantees" commitment, non-implementation of the seven-day unreasonable return obligation, and untimely delivery. From the perspective of commodity categories, it is mainly concentrated in mobile phones, shoes, coats, furniture and automobiles, accounting for 25.61% in total; Printed matter, dairy products, computer peripherals, air conditioners and luggage increased by 154%, 120%, 98%, 98% and 90% respectively.

  Fifth, the proportion of commodity complaints increased, and the consumption of new energy vehicles was short-lived.

  In 2022, the national market supervision department accepted a total of 8,623,200 commodity complaints, accounting for 65.81% of the complaints, up 4.37 percentage points from the previous year; There were 4,480,600 service complaints, accounting for 34.19% of the complaints. The increase in the proportion of commodity complaints reflects the prominent product quality problems under the downward pressure of the real economy. Among them, the top complaints are: ordinary food, clothing, shoes and hats, household items, household appliances, transportation and communication products, accounting for 58.43%. The top service complaints are: catering, accommodation, sales, Internet services, culture, entertainment and sports, beauty salons and baths, accounting for 46.37%.

  It is worth noting that with the rapid increase in the penetration rate of new energy vehicles, consumers’ requirements for quality are also constantly improving. In 2022, the platform received 16,000 complaints and reports about new energy vehicles, a year-on-year increase of 62.84%. Among them, contract problems, quality problems and false propaganda problems grew rapidly, increasing by 126.33%, 77.35% and 75.65% respectively. Consumer demands focus on: imperfect after-sales service, failure to fulfill the "three guarantees" commitment; Sudden flameout, oil leakage, abnormal engine sound, brake steering failure and battery module damage during driving; Publish false information, induce consumers to sign unfair format clauses, and reduce the responsibility of car companies.

  Six, new consumption hotspots are constantly emerging, and the accompanying consumer disputes are rising.

  In recent years, "new consumption" is becoming the "accelerator" of economic development. While meeting the diversified needs of consumption, some new situations of infringement and new problems of rights protection are gradually exposed, reflecting the new pain points of consumer rights protection.

  In 2022, new model problems such as digital collection (NFT) rose, making supervision more difficult, with 59,700 related demands (only 198 in the previous year), mainly focusing on non-delivery, non-refund, malicious price gouging, high handling fees, and arbitrary closure of consumer accounts. Under the craze of "blind box", consumer demands reached 41,400 pieces, up 61.72% year-on-year. IP cross-border co-branded products set off a buying frenzy, with 38,100 related demands, up 66.96% year-on-year. Some merchants took the opportunity to raise prices, but the problems of uneven product quality, fake and shoddy products, delayed delivery and lack of after-sales service were outstanding. Behind the fiery outdoor sports such as camping, the demands for sunscreen products and mosquito-repellent products increased by 99.12% and 149.62% respectively. Ice and snow sports are popular, but the related demands are as high as 8677, up 60.51% year-on-year. The quality problems such as ski clothes and skis are outstanding, and the tickets, deposits and safety issues of ski resorts need urgent attention.

  Seven, online consumption continues to escalate, and consumer satisfaction still needs to be improved.

  With the continuous development of e-commerce in China, the epidemic situation catalyzes online consumption habits, and the online shopping field ranks "half of the country’s consumers’ demands". In 2022, the online shopping demand increased by 56.38% year-on-year, which mainly has three characteristics:

  (1) The format of "cloud consumption" has expanded rapidly, and complaints have grown rapidly.

  Various "cloud consumption" modes, such as live delivery, cross-border e-commerce, fresh e-commerce, online shopping, online entertainment, and private kitchen customization, have emerged, which has become a bright spot in the growth of weak consumption last year, but related demands are also rising. There were 220,900 requests for live broadcast with goods, up 1.15 times year-on-year and 5.01 times higher than that in 2020. There were problems such as no products, shoddy products and false propaganda. Cross-border e-commerce demands were 334,500, up 42.63% year-on-year and 1.47 times higher than that in 2020. The problems of negative after-sales service, failure to fulfill warranty commitments and counterfeiting of overseas products were prominent.

  (B) There are many new types of price fraud, and supervision and law enforcement are facing new challenges.

  Technologies such as big data algorithm of platform economy improve transaction efficiency, and it is also easy to induce new price fraud. The online shopping price demand was 106,700 pieces, up 99.03% year-on-year, which mainly included the problems of killing big data, changing trading conditions in real time, "marking low and closing high", concealing preferential threshold conditions, and the preferential treatment for non-members was greater than that for members, which brought higher challenges to the price supervision and law enforcement in the platform economy field.

  (C) Video membership service routines, consumer experience needs to be improved.

  At present, paid members have become the "standard" of video websites, but there is a lack of "standard" of member services, with 8534 related demands, up 103.82% year-on-year. The problems reflected by consumers mainly focus on: unreasonable advance on demand, suspected of repeated charges; The "free advertisement" is not honored, and the video is inserted with advertisements; The prompt of automatic renewal is not obvious, the way of cancellation is difficult to query, and consumers are easy to buy by mistake. Others rely on word games such as adjusting fees and changing rights to make up for losses and reduce users’ trust.

  Eight, "ODR" continued to expand, and diversified solutions to disputes steadily improved.

  Market supervision departments have vigorously promoted the construction of online consumer dispute resolution (ODR) mechanism, and the success rate of settlement and consumer satisfaction have made steady progress. 114,000 ODR enterprises have been developed in various places and settled in the national 12315 platform, and 3,094,800 disputes have been directly negotiated with consumers online. Compared with the traditional administrative mediation method, the average processing time is 7.69 days, which is greatly reduced by 14.2 days; The success rate of reconciliation increased by 11.25 percentage points; Covering 97% of cities, an increase of 2.36% over the previous year, fully releasing the institutional innovation advantages of ODR. On the whole, ODR’s social influence is constantly expanding, and the enthusiasm of market participants for voluntary participation is constantly improving, which has made a useful exploration for diversified solutions to consumer disputes and social co-governance.

  Nine, "sunshine" consumer complaint information, effectively strengthen the source of governance.

  The General Administration continued to promote the publicity of consumer complaint information, formulated a publicity system and built a publicity system, and launched pilot projects in some cities in Jilin, Guangdong, Sichuan and Xinjiang from November 2022. At present, 20,817 complaints from 14,114 enterprises have been publicized, effectively strengthening social supervision and credit constraints, and improving the transparency of the consumption environment, the integrity of operators and the satisfaction of consumers. After publicity, the success rate of complaint mediation in the pilot area increased by 8.39 percentage points compared with that before publicity and 5.97 percentage points compared with the same period of the previous year; The average complaint settlement time was 11.77 days, 2.17 days faster than the same period of the previous year; The consumer evaluation was 4.8 points (out of 5 points), 0.1 points higher than before publicity.

  X. Complaints and reports have become an important channel for discovering illegal clues, and the social supervision role of consumers continues to emerge.

  Consumers actively played the role of social supervision. In 2022, they reported 4,722,300 illegal clues to the market supervision department, up 40.34% year-on-year, including 2,027,300 illegal advertisements, 723,100 violations of consumers’ rights and interests, and 341,800 illegal food safety behaviors. Judging from the increase, reports of unfair competition, trademark violations and online trading violations all increased by more than 60% year-on-year.

  Market supervision departments adhere to the people’s livelihood orientation, strengthen the analysis and judgment of complaints and reports, and severely investigate and punish violations of laws and regulations according to law. 281,100 cases were filed for reports of illegal advertisements and false propaganda; 63,000 cases were reported and filed against violations of consumers’ rights and interests, mainly involving the sale of products that do not meet safety requirements, counterfeiting and cheating consumers; 48,700 illegal reports on food safety were filed.